CaBLING (MTB content)

Been doing some fettling over the past week or so, getting the bike ready for the new season. Managed to get out on the bike on saturday and sunday (getting used to using the helmet cam too).

So... I totally disassembled (ie to a pile of bits on the floor) and rebuilt the forks, serviced the rear shock, disassembled and serviced the rear mech, disassembled and serviced the pedals (they didn't need it, but Amsoil GHD is sooooo goood!), took the cranks off and partly sorted the BB (need a bb tool that can actually get over the ISIS axle!), scrubbed the chain out (waste of time as it's filthy again now... need an ultrasonic tank), etc.

However, the only real changes to anything are that I put HEL performance braided brake hoses on, and changed the rear mech cable over to full-length outer (with an outer to match the new brake hose).

So, my new caBLING:



Louise FR and SRAM X.0 with purdy cable/hose.



Louise FR caliper with braided line



Rear brake and rear derailleur lines running past rear shock



Rear lines running to their destinations.

 

Isaac,

our local bike tech dumps chains in a tub filled with Muc-Off (the latest stuff has degreaser) for a period... have you tried that?

p.s. the hoses look good.

 

Chris - I've tried all sorts. I reckon that sticking it in an ultrasonic tank of degreaser is probably the ideal, as that's the only thing that will get dirt out of the pins and links without significant user intervention. With ultrasonic tanks going for £15 up these days, it's not wildly expensive in the scheme of things.

 

now the only questions that remains is, can you feel any difference in the action of the brakes, do they feel firmer, do they fade less slowly due to the cabling absorbing heat from the oil.

is it just different or better?



would Tones be able to tell the differnece on his penny farthing?

 

Hmmm...well, we know cables make no difference

Seriously... yes, they're fractionally firmer, but objectively/rationally the performance difference is not worth the cost. However, the caveat to that is that it does depend on how good the stock lines are. I've heard that shimano lines are softer than most, so they benefit more than lines which are firmer as stock (eg avid, hope mono series, magura).

Basically this bike is well balanced in spec terms, and at its logical conclusion. There's no serious upgrading left to do (just a lighter seatpost and a SRAM front mech), so I'm twiddling little things. I can't decide whether or not to go uberbling and replace all the caliper, crown and stem bolts with Ti... again, won't be worth it objectively.

 

great stuff - I'll have to get my humble trek serviced and get out and about...!

 

I find putting the chain in an ice cream tub with some petrol or white spirit, leaving it to soak with an occasional jiggle does the job just fine. To avoid having to get rid of the stuff afterwards you can put it in a bottle and let the gunk settle then drain off the petrol to be used next time. The just wipe with a rag, put it back on and lube it up.

 

spray it with lube every week or so and take it off and give it a bit of a scrub every 3 months if i can be arsed - ahh the wonders of internal hub gearing.....
do have to get an oil change soon though - about 6 months overdue - doh....

 

dump the oldpiece of crap in the bin where it deserves to be and treat yourself to a nice new shiny Connex or SRAM hollowpin, just think of the 30 grams you'll save.

 

naaah get yourself a gold plated rohloff chain... just think of the bling that you'll add...

 

Current chain is actually a pretty new PC-991.

 

I recall reading in the 80s/90s mtb magazines about upgrading you nuts and bolts with titainium ones so that you've save a few grammes...and they cost a few hundred!!
not sure if its still like that now - haven't bought a one of those mags for years now...

 

People do... even more extreme than that in fact. Ti is cheaper these days, although prices are going up right now (Boeing and Airbus are to blame... demand is massively increasing due to the 787 and A350XWB using large amounts. Same is true of carbon fibre).

Google for "weight weenie".

As for me, I buy stuff that's a reasonable compromise between weight, strength and cost. I don't see the point in things that are so light that they break or have less good function (like the SID forks... sure, they're light but they're flexy).

 

gentleman,may i forward you to the last bastion of anodized parts and historical bulids....

retrobike.co.uk

they are nearly as nuts as we are...

 

very nice - I first got into mtb'ing around '89 when a mate who was into outdoor activities had one (a crap raleigh with 21 inch frame) and I had a ride down in jesmond dene (from paddyfreeman park) on a crazy single track - I managed to hang on and the buzz was amazing!

I bought a few cheapo raleighs myself and hung around with some guys who had good bikes (orange) then I got my first decent bike around '91 - this was a white trek 950 (500 quid, 18 inch frame, lx components...) - I was able to ride 70 miles offroad in a day...ah...those were the days!

I've got a trek 4900 now...

 

Maybe I should sell my old Deore thumbshifters and original unexploded (that's rare!) ESP900 shifters...

 

ah the joys are screaming down the mud through the trees in Jessy dene on the way to and from work as a kid.

kawasaki on westgate road, jusy in case you were going to ask.

 

Here's the usable part of the helmet cam vid:



Unfortunately it got the mud spot on it just after that clip ends, and so the 6 minute singletrack section was basically unusable. It's also zeroed too low...

 

hey, still great attempt!