Finally got the Fiesta running perfectly - no thanks to garages

After the car came back from the MOT it was ideling at 1800-2000rpm and over reving when slowing down to about 5000rpm.

My machanic cleaned out the idle control valve but this had no effect. So on Saturday I spent the afternoon tinkering under the bonnet, I noticed when driving it the car dosn't really slow down when releasing the throttle. I then checked the throttle and the cable seemed perfectly tight, it would tighten anymore so there did't seem any problems here.

The next thing I start listening for manifold leaks and I then noticed a breather pipe which connects from the oil filler cap to the fuel injection system has a plastic elbew missing which means there is a huge crack in the pipe letting in air. The purpose of this pipe is to release the gasses from the engine, so I put on tuck tape round the split, start the engine it idles at 1100rpm.

Went for a test drive and it was still over revving but after 100 miles this over revving has really been reduced as the ECU probably has learnt new stuff.

The cost of the part from Ford? £1.25.

There was also a miss fire at the lower speeds but the plugs etc are only a year old and the I know the gaps were set correctly, so I put lots of redex in and this seems to have solved the miss fire along with sealing the exessive source of air.

I feel proud because for the first time in my life, I have fixed a car and something that a garage failed to diagnose.

My next step is to get the car ideling at 800rpm again, I am hoping when I buy the new elblew joint this will cure it as I am sure my tempory tuck tape measure is not completly air tight!

 

Is the elbow joint not the PCV valve?

Also, check that the throttle cable isn't over-tight. That's the simplest cause of over-revving. From what you've said about it, it sounds like it could well be.

 

There is a little bit of slack in it, its certainly not over tight. It is just as you slow down and dip the clutch it over revs, I am going to borrow an ECU scanner to see if anything throws up a fault and then reset the ECU.

The elbew joint just connects the pipe, I have had a look under my friends Ka which has the same engine and there because the cable connects at a right angle it has an elbow joint, it is missing on my car which means the pipe just hangs of loose allowing far too much air into the fuel injection system, I remember a year back when I did the ECU scan it came back as lean mixture, although it still passed the MOT emissions.

We have also just got the new tryes, Kumho KU31's .

 

Looks something like that?

 

Yep but its connects from the fuel injection system into the breather oil cap, it connects into this.



So I am not sure if it is just a elbow joint or a valve. The pipe two connectors are the same diameter.

 

Good motor factors should be able to tell you. PCV valves aren't expensive parts either.

 

Thread hijack

The wanring light on the dash for when the handbreak is on has sarted to flicker when driving. The handbreak is definitely fully released. Ideas?

 

Have you checked that the hand brake warning light is not also the break warning light? On a lot of cars including mine the handbrake and brake warning light are the same. Check the brake fluid levels first.

 

MO - there's usually a button/switch/sensor or whatever at the 'floor end' of the handbrake lever. You might need to pull back the gaiter to see it. Have a fiddle about, see if the wiring is OK or adjust it so that it is actuated when you release the HB.......maybe.........

 

check the brake pads for wear, sounds to me like the pad sensors,

I had a Citroen where the pad sensor was connected to the h/brake light, so it started flickering as the pads got low and then came on permanently

 

Sorry for the hijack, and thanks for the replies

Checked the break fluid and it's about 1mm above the minimum indicator! I guess the obvious thing to do is top it up, and then keep an eye on it. Is it normal for the level to drop or does it mean there must be a leak? I can't see any obvious leaks (keep in mind this is my first car and I know nothing about them), or wet patches under where I keep it parked.

I've got a Haynes manual, so I guess I'm now a mechanic I'll figure out how to check the break pads and do so over the weekend.

Cheers.

MO :guiness:

 

Update.....

Topping up the fluid stopped the warning light coming on.

We went away for the weekend and about 2 hours into the 3 hour journey, the brakes started getting quite noisey and got worse as we went. Turns out the brake pads had pretty much completely gone! I hadn't checked them as topping up the fluid stopped the warning light, and the car was bought quite recently with a brand new MOT.

So we then ended up also having to drive back after our weekend away with almost no pads and by the time we got home.... metal on metal

So, the car was already booked in for a new lock for the boot. Also ended up needing new pads and discs. Bleh!

Only £150 for the pads, discs, and new boot lock though (inc labour and vat), so not as bad as I'd expected.

Should the warning light have stayed on to warn about the pads?

 

No.

I don't think the sender is conneected to the pads in that way.

I'm not too sure on how they are connnected tho'.

 

I mentioned to the dude at the garage how I'd not even thought to check the pads as it was bought with a brand new MOT. He said don't always take an MOT as gospel, and also the pads only require a small amount so are often just passed through.

 

Can any on elighten us ?

What does the law state for he mot?

They've got to be right just at that place and time?

 

if the brakes passed the retardation test then that all that's required, they could do this right up until there's metal to metal contact,

the sensors are set in the pad, as the pad wears down they make contact with the disc and cause the light to come on, at first this maybe just a flicker as the sensor just lightly touches the disc, if you get to metal to metal the sensors are destroyed and no longer work

 

Slightly OT, but does anyone know what this indicator means?

It's on the dash of my gf's clio, cant find the manual anywhere. thanks

 

This might help.... http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_do_the_lights_on_the_dashboard_of_my_renault_clio_1.2_billibongo_mean

 

My guess would be that it's related to brakes, eg worn pads. The dashes outside the disc representing calipers.

 

Does it mean the bonnet is about to fly open at speed?