How to build a good IC ....and not spend too much money!

Discussion in 'DIY Discussion' started by zanash, Feb 8, 2006.

  1. zanash

    zanash

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    I've been promising to do this for a while.....it was going to be an article but I never seem to have the time to do the photo's and drawings. So this is a generic IC cable that should not cost more than £30 whatever conductors you use.

    In my estimation 20% of the sound of an IC is determined by the plugs you fit. For this cable I would suggest you get the Nuetrik plugs with the cable gripper, these are not the "profi" ones and should cost about a £1 each.

    The next 60% of the sound is determined by the type of conductor/insulator you use. Now I'm not going to tell you whats right or wrong, but for myself I much prefer silver to copper and solid core to stranded. If you decide on copper Maplin do a range of enamelled copper wire which is ideal [just make certain you scrape enough of the polyeurathane of the wire to make a connection]. A roll of this should cost about a £5, I'd get 0.5 or less thinner is better but its an absolute pig to work with. I tend to use 0.5mm silver or smaller but you need to insulate each conductor.

    The last 20% is determined by the topology used, ie how many conductors and what form the cable takes, do you bother with shielding? I suggest for a beginner start simple ....

    So this is what I suggest .....

    You need to decide your prefered conductor, then this case I'm going to take about silver in ptfe sleeve, but it could be copper or anything else you fancy...platinum is a bit pricey these days and mercurys awkward to work with [and toxic].

    So the simplest IC you can make is two wires in parallel, but that provides no RF/EMI rejection. So you need to twist the two cores tightly together. By hand this is a pain but if you have a hand drill make a 2" disc with a bolt through it and at 180 degress cut two notches. Take your two conductors and anchour one end in a vice or under a heavy rock or similar, at the other end [I normally do 2-3m at a time] secure the wires in each notch. Spin the drill keeping the wires taught, till you can feel the drill begin to be pulled towards the vice. You should have about full twist every 5mm [if you started with wires about 1.5mm each in diameter]. Cut to length ie about 0.75m seems to be standard, but a shorter one will sound better if you can get away with the reduced lenght.

    Unwind about 10mm at each end and strip back to expose the conductors....if you clever the insulation that you have used will be of different colours make id easy. If not use a multimeter to id what will become signal and ground.

    Take your desired plug and use a good soldering iron and tin the ends of the twisted wires. Fit these according to the type of plug your using and then solder to the appropriate pins, centre pin is always hot or signal the ground could be a tag or even the cable clamp assembly. The neutriks are the tag varriety you can then titivate and cover with heat shrink or a flashy jacket over the whole cable ....but as this is a basic cable we will leave it sans jacket. A note on solder always use good solder! if you usesilver solder remember that it can be very hard to rework....so if you get it wrong and its easy to do it can be a bugger!

    Check the cable for continuety using a multimeter and also that there are no shorts to ground.

    Then fit and listen.......

    A basic copper ic should out perform most commercial ones upto about £50.....a silver one can do the same to some of the more exotics and expensive commercial offerings. They of course will not be the very best sounding cables in the world, but they will sound damn good for the outlay, and of course you will have built them yourself.
     
    zanash, Feb 8, 2006
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  2. zanash

    Coda II getting there slowly

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    For the completely non electronically minded (ie. me) is there a minimum thickness that a conductor has to be in this situation?
     
    Coda II, Feb 8, 2006
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  3. zanash

    zanash

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    For the DIYer there are a few practicalities. If you make the conductor too thin, it becomes very difficult to work with and then if not supported in a suitably designed housing [sheath] will have very little strength.
     
    zanash, Feb 8, 2006
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  4. zanash

    dreftar

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    Sounds really interesting Ill give this a go and get back to you about it in a few weeks - Thanks
     
    dreftar, Feb 8, 2006
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  5. zanash

    Tenson Moderator

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    I just made a able using 0.4mm pure silver an it was surprisingly strong! It didn't want to be shaped though and kept going back in to a coil. Putting it inside a PTFE sleeve fixed that however.
     
    Tenson, Feb 8, 2006
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  6. zanash

    zanash

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    yes ptfe is really strong and resilliant, it would allow you to add a third empty sleeve to create a pseudo braid rather than a twist too.
     
    zanash, Feb 9, 2006
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  7. zanash

    Jampot

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    Excuse my ignorance, but -

    If a third length of ptfe is introduced to create a braid rather than a twist would having an 'unterminated' length of wire in the third strand improve the performance by increasing rf rejection or whatever it is the braid does for us?

    One of these days I will actually make something like this instead of just reading about it....
     
    Jampot, Feb 9, 2006
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  8. zanash

    Coda II getting there slowly

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    Does that mean there is then enough solder on the wire to bond to the plug before you bring the two together?

    Is it then better to apply heat to the plug/tag or the wire?

    (I'm always put off by how many hands you need to do something that sounds straightforward)
     
    Coda II, Feb 9, 2006
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  9. zanash

    Coda II getting there slowly

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    Zanash suggested thin as well; have people tried thicker solid conductors?
     
    Coda II, Feb 9, 2006
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  10. zanash

    zanash

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    Yes tried thick ...unsuprisingly its hard to work with and bend. Sound wise it doesn't have the refinment of the thinner stuff...I'm assuming you mean greater than 2mm dia.

    Sorry after the wires are tinned you need to solder to the rca plugs with more solder.....everyone has there own style of soldering but if you tin first then place wire and socket to gether heat with the iron and apply the end of the solder to the connection the solder should flow round the joint. If a drop or miniscus is seen in the shape of the solder you have a poor joint. reheat to let the solder form a very shallow angle to the metal of the joint.

    I built a small jig with a female rca socket with a heat sink connected to the ground and signal pin. The heat sink is a coil of thick solid core copper wraped round a pencil as a former, about 2" long. This frees up at least two of my five hands !


    I could have added that to finish off the cable you can sleeve in an expanded nylon braid ie techflex and secure with heat shrink.
     
    zanash, Feb 10, 2006
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