Ittok, Ekos I, Ekos II

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi and General Audio' started by SteveC, Apr 16, 2004.

  1. SteveC

    SteveC PrimaLuna is not cheese

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2003
    Messages:
    854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SE Norway
    Hi -

    I'm moving to a more recent LP12 and I have two offers, both of which come with an Ekos. I currently use an Ittok of the earlier kind.

    Is the Ekos II much different sonically to the I? Should I hold out for a II, or will the step from Ittok be so good that I'd be happy with an Ekos of any kind? Maybe I'm asking about Ittok > EkosI > EkosII sonic steps.

    Secondly, both of these guys say they have Ittok IIs but one net source http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Hills/4133/lp12_faq.txt says they are I's, to judge by their serial numbers. Does anyone know for sure what serial number was the changeover?

    Thanks for any help, folks. I'm trying to decide which to go for by sunday, preferably by today friday :)
     
    SteveC, Apr 16, 2004
    #1
  2. SteveC

    jonboselector

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2004
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    1
    I had a Ittok LVIII which was better and more musical than an Ekos 1 that I subsequently had. Problem is LVIII's are as rare as hens teeth - I wish I still had it. I currently use a Hadcock 228E.
    ________
    teen girl Webcams
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 27, 2011
    jonboselector, Apr 16, 2004
    #2
  3. SteveC

    SteveC PrimaLuna is not cheese

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2003
    Messages:
    854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SE Norway
    Thanks for that - I should have said I have the LVII (I think). Since my post I've read that Linn will upgrade the I's bearings to bring it up to II standards, but I don't know what they charge for that.
     
    SteveC, Apr 16, 2004
    #3
  4. SteveC

    jonboselector

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2004
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    1
    I should add that Linn arms being ideally suited to LP12s, do complement them well. For example an early Ekos I found quite lean sounding but then earlier LP12's were known for their "bloom" and thus an ideal match. A later Ekos should be better matched to a Cirkussed, Lingoed, Tampolined etc LP12.
    Good Luck with it.
    ________
    Hyde Park Residence 2 Pattaya
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 27, 2011
    jonboselector, Apr 16, 2004
    #4
  5. SteveC

    SteveC PrimaLuna is not cheese

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2003
    Messages:
    854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SE Norway
    Hmmm well the tables are in the range 1989 to 1999 but they both have the full monty Lingo, Cirkus, Trampolin. Since I already suffer a bit from a bass hump around 90 Hz due to the listening room I don't want to exacerbate things.

    Pity, but I think both of the arms are I's below 6000 and these have been known apparently to have occasional problems with cueing, bearings and setting VTF, not to mention ageing of rubber in the counterweight push-on. Maybe I'm being too pessimistic, but both of them are a long drive away with no chance for home demo. OTOH I trust both of the people involved, if I ask them the right questions.
     
    SteveC, Apr 16, 2004
    #5
  6. SteveC

    jonboselector

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2004
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    1
    Go for it !
    If the Ekos is not ot your liking you could trade it. Ekos of any desciption attracts a lot of attention especially considering the current list price of one.
     
    jonboselector, Apr 16, 2004
    #6
  7. SteveC

    SteveC PrimaLuna is not cheese

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2003
    Messages:
    854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SE Norway
    :) OK that's encouraging.

    I sent some loaded questions to the parties involved. One answer I received was that - yes - it is easy to twist the counterweight round. According to some of the reports on Audio Asylum etc. this means that the grommet thingy in the counterweight is tired (this also applies to Ittoks) which more easily allows resonances to be undamped - so the counterweight+grommet should be renewed. One shop even kept several of them because most decks that came in for servicing needed this. Scare stories or? I've no idea what Linn charge for a counterweight.

    All in all, I would have thought there'd be a discount for an Ittok I compared with an Ittok II. I don't know the British market very well, but maybe £400 difference???
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 16, 2004
    SteveC, Apr 16, 2004
    #7
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.