jst bought a cheap multimeter... tonearm wire probs.

I've disconnected the cartridge tags as I'm getting no signal in the left channel or only intermittent. At the other end of the arm tube is a small trailing connector block with brass pins as the armtubes on the Hadcock are swappable.

Putting the multimeter terminal probes at the ends of each wire in turn I get a reading from the red, white and green, but nothing from the black. I know the carts fine, so does that mean the arm tubes cooked?

I'm not that technical!

 

Chris I had exactly the same problem with my Hadcock.

If you "Break into" the red plug, you will probably find one of the arm wires have come detached.

Hadcock wanted £20 plus the cost of getting to them and back to fix it

 

Hi Andy

Thats a partial relief! Did you manage to fix yours, are they soldered in or just squished?

Thanks! Chris

 

Chris......all soldered.

I discovered I had a problem when I put your old Sumiko Blue Point Evo 3 in it, Which had been working fine in my SME 3012, but suddenly one channel was down in the Hadcock.

I actually repaired it myself, just because I did not want the hassle of posting the arm back to Hadcock.

Use you multimeter to check continuity from the fixed block to the phono plugs on the trailing arm lead, and if you have continuity there then suspect the free red plug.

I ended up resoldering all the connections as they were all "coming free"

Incidentally Chris I am also not technical in the electronics field, but still managed this repair adequately, so have a go and keep us posted.

Which hadcock is it? mine was the 242 Export Cryo. I suppose the only word or caution is that if yours is one of the more expensive models from the range and has finer, better, wires than the cardas stuff in mine then you may want to consider a professional repair.

Andy

 

if you need any help ....you only need ask !

 

And again

White wire for me............at about a month old.......as stated in another thread .........not very impressed.

SME for me next time

 

wire problems

I am new to this forum and a tt newbie. I have narrowed my tone arm search down to 2, sme m2-9 or hadcock 242 export. Seems some people hear have experience with sme/ hadcock products. Sonically, how do they differ? Is the sme m2 more reliable?

Thx.

 

I've had both arms. The SME one is built like a tank and to SME's standards compared to the Hadcock, one reviewer said they actually preferred The M2's presentation to the revered IV and sounding slightly lusher. Its built on a very old school design of theirs called the 3009 but with some input from the Musical Fidelity supremo who saw the strengths of the model. many of the 3009 series from the 60's and 70's you still see on ebay, which is a testament to their longevity. Its called the M2 because it matched the limited edition MF turntable I had called the M1.

The Hadcock is a pain to set up, but does reward you with a lush classic vinyl sound. George Hadcock spent his entire life tweeking the design and theres probably about 8 different ones out there. The 242's extra length minimises tracking errors, and sounded awesome on my LP12 (I know its an odd combo). The wiring socket that plugs into the tonearm base from the wand is its achilles heel as the tags can come loose and its out with the multimeter!. Its actually designed so you can unplug it and swap tonearm tubes around with other cartridges set up, but how often do you need that is what you have to ask yourself! Last time mine went pear shaped Charles Hadcock (the son) still repairs these. It only cost £30 to get the wire resoldered. He's an interesting chap who makes massive sculptures in the same ilk but his own unique style as Anthony Gormley. There's something about the Hadcock, its just all that form and function I liked and the lovely polished finish. Its a gimble bearing which means it balances its fulcrum on a stainless steel spike, (I'm told from the horses mouth not to bother damping these with silicon fluid in the bearing). The M2 uses a knife edge bearing (an inverted wedge) rather than ball bearings. A company called Audio Origami can further enhance the M2 if its anything like the 3009's with rewires and new bearings, if you get money in the future and like the arm. Email them to make sure, Johnny is a very nice chap. The Hadcock has a captive tonearm lead, so its important to get the one you want when you buy, although George knew his stuff and wouldn't use a cable he felt compromised the sound although there are the silver and the cryo versions which elevates the performance further, the M2 has RCA sockets so you can use any interconnect that takes your fancy.

I have a weakness for the Hadcock, despite all the trials its put me through, but equally would have an M2 again. They are both spectacular arms IMHO, I'd say the Hadcock just pips it and its a bit different and actually a very fine sound for the price point.

 

wiring problems

Which do you think would work best with a denon 103 r? Table is a michell gyro se. Thx.

 

That'd be the M2 I guess since the 3009 range are often paired with that cart.