Lavardin IT: Original vs 2K2

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi and General Audio' started by Nomoretweaks, Oct 24, 2007.

  1. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    Has anyone compared, or upgraded the original IT ?
    I have read some controversial opinions about wich one is better. Any views?
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 24, 2007
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  2. Nomoretweaks

    Garmt

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    We are now on model 2K6. I have compared 2K6 with 2K2 and found some improvements in sound (more details). I found no backlash in musicality, as sometimes is said between 2K6 and 2K2. I have never compared 2K2 and original, but I have never heard anyone say it was worse. Where did you read this?
     
    Garmt, Oct 25, 2007
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  3. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    Garmt: A guy who has upgaded his IT to later specs (I am not sure whether it was 2K2 or 2K6) told me that the original one "had some magic" which was lost in the newer model, which as he claims is more robust and solid in its presentation.
    I have picked an early IS on French ebay, which has relegated my two EAR amps to lower shelves, so I am naturally intrigued by IS Ref/ IT.

    PS BTW now I start really regretting that I have sold my Opus 21 :) Should be a great match. And actually with this CDP a bit more solidity in IT would be only a bonus, I guess.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2007
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 26, 2007
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  4. Nomoretweaks

    Garmt

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    Hmmm... As I have said, I have never been able to compare the 2K2 and original model. The original has a different input board than the 2K2 and different output boards. The 2K6 only has a different input board compared with the 2K2, but does sound more detailed, dynamic, transparent. I heard this without A/B comparison.

    It is indeed a shame you got rid of the Opus 21. I have not found a better match yet (< 5000 Euro).

    The IT has more authority than the IS Ref. What speaker are you using?
     
    Garmt, Oct 29, 2007
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  5. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    Zingali Overture 3s. It's 92dB horn hybrids. Compressor driver+horn arrangement is absolutely fabulous, the best highs I've ever had, it cries for a SET, but two woofers do need some grip. Otherwice the speakers may go from relaxed to lazy and off-beat. I ended up bi-amping it with EAR 869/890, but soon realised that it was a bit too much - too many shiny boxes, to many valves and too much heat.
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 29, 2007
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  6. Nomoretweaks

    Garmt

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    Any of the Lavardin amps would be good for this speaker technically, but the IT will give you the most insight and authority.
     
    Garmt, Oct 29, 2007
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  7. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    Garmt: are your shelves 25 mm plywood?
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 29, 2007
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  8. Nomoretweaks

    Garmt

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    Yes, 25 mm, 18 layers. Birch Plywood.
     
    Garmt, Oct 29, 2007
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  9. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    After I have put 25 mm plywood shelves on my old metal rack I lost any interest in buying a Hutter.
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 29, 2007
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  10. Nomoretweaks

    Garmt

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    Great, isn't it...? ;)
     
    Garmt, Oct 29, 2007
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  11. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    Absolutely. Did you try other thicknesses?
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 29, 2007
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  12. Nomoretweaks

    JCL

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    [​IMG]

    ;)
     
    JCL, Oct 29, 2007
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  13. Nomoretweaks

    Dev Moderator

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    Good work JCL. Care to eloborate on construction details?
     
    Dev, Oct 30, 2007
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  14. Nomoretweaks

    Nomoretweaks Tourist on tilt

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    wow. what are the specs and price for this plywood, if you don't mind ? I can not see any screws..
     
    Nomoretweaks, Oct 30, 2007
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  15. Nomoretweaks

    JCL

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    I can't take the credit for this one as I blatantly ripped off the design from the Lavardin site (FAQ section). They bang on about the lattice construction of ply being the perfect material for hi-fi components etc. Anyway I used double thinkness baltic birch ply which is about 30% more expensive than most good shop grade plywood. It's good stuff though, no filler or voids and very stable. I was originally going to used 6mm countersunk allen headed bolts and wood inserts to join the legs to the shelves but it was looking too industrial so I decided on mortise and tenons. A bit of an OTT way of going about it but anyway it's nice to know it'll support the roof of the house in an earthquake. An easier way would be to just use a couple of dowels to join the two together.
     
    JCL, Oct 30, 2007
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