lesson needed in tube amps

Iknow nothing at all about tube amps, but Im considering the tube amp option and was wondering if zg members could arm me with any useful information as to how they work and what to look for / avoid? Any info, no matter how basic will be of value. I run a cdplayer straight into power amp currently as it has a digi volume control...Im after good suggestions also around the thousand pound mark or slightly above...cheers

 

I had one Cayin A-88T wuch I replaced by one Classic 16.0, only because the second has easy bias adjustement, so I can play with different output tubes, without having to open the machine and play with high voltages...

Both sound very good, the Cayin looks nicer and has remote...

They are exactely your budget, 1.500 euros...

 

My personal preference would be to get a Leak Stereo 20 amplifier. The transformers and build quality are great and parts. They are quite old now but if you look around you should find a serviced one for about £400-£600.

Obvious things to look out for ie the condition of the paint work normaly gives an idea of how its been kept, Look underneath to see if any components are scorched or have been in he past, Ask if there have been any modifications and check the valves swich it on (with a pair of speakers attatched have a look to see if anything starts smoking. If you have any doubts dont buy it. Any dealer should give a warranty and if private buying have a listen to it. If you have a local engineer have a chat with him/her thay should know about a Stereo 20. Then have a look around for a second hand TVC pre amp.

 

Manley Stingray, although they come in at about £1200 second hand. Or the Bewitched/Puresound? one that was in Plush recently. That is £1000. Tony at Coherent stocks them. I've heard that sound very beguiling. I've also seen the Prima Luna kit around at that price, there was a pre-power in the classifieds not long ago.

 

I use an Icon Audio Stero 40i and the Icon audio PS1 phono stage. To say I am still stunned by the performance is an understatement.
www.iconaudio.co.uk I've phoned these guys a few times even though I've not bought directly from them and they are more than happy to spend time chatting and pouring out advice.

 

Someone on Wigwam (not me I hasten to add) is selling an Art Audio Concerto for under a grand. > £3k new I think.

 

Grab it! I've got the Art Audio Quintet (AA's bottom-end model) and it sounds great.

 

valve amps sound just as different to each other as solid state amps do.

Power, performance, distortion, class A, Class A/B, valve classification - it's all different model to model.

What speakers are you planning to drive with the amp?

 

spendor s100 s . bigger brother of the sp1...good sound but big bass driver that needs a fair bit of grip.....thanks for advice so far, and im interested in hearing about more amps that me be a good purchase...but im also after info such as what is "bias matching" "class a/b" How often valves need changing and how much they cost to maintain etc....Imean to say I require the most basic of basic information...pros and cons etc...thanks

 

consider the valves to be a consumable item ....that was a bit of shock when my first valve amp needed its chinese valves replacing within six months....

As a valve taster I'd get a cheap set of chinese amps ....and see if they do it for you ....

you need speakers with a 90db or better sensitivity....best of course would be a 300b single ended ... but keep in mind my first point.

 

banpe, your speakers appear to be an easy load for an amplifier

http://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/690spendor/index6.html

You're lucky in this regard.

Unless you listen music at extremely high levels, I'd reccomend a single ended amp, which in my view is the best sounding topology.

My reccomendation is the Glasshouse 300B. Available as an integrated or as a straight power amp.

If you choose a basic set of components (and basic tubes) it will be in budget. A couple of hundred pounds should see the amp built for you by the manufacturer.

I had one of these, and frankly I'm not sure you'll get a better sound for your budget.

They are running low on the original chasis, so be quick if you want one of these. It may take months before they replace the chasis from the manufacturer.

(www.hificollective.co.uk)

If you listen at really high volumes, you may find that a single ended amp is operating near its limit, even with easy to drive speakers like yours. If that's the case, then sacrifice some of the sound quality for a push-pull amp.

 

A bargain really, sounds wonderful.
Partner with a decent pre, and your sorted.

 

whats the difference between pull / push and single end? is it only power output and what do these terms mean ie what is single ended and what does push pull mean? thanks for help so far by the way

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-ended_triode

 

thats great bottleneck...cheers...still dont get the class a b or ab thing yet....