Speaker re-wiring?

Has anyone re-wired and re-capacitor-ed their speakers?
Firstly, is it worthwhile? If so what type of wire would be the best option, and how easy is it to replace capacitors in a cross-over?
And is it easy to do? (I can solder, though not particularly well!)
And is it cheap?
I'm thinking I may perhaps get some benefit by having a fiddle with my Dittons!

 

Well worth it in my opinion. A good, multi-strand copper wire, well insulated, with good current capacity is a big help. Twisting the wires together also improves things. Capacitors can also be greatly improved, I've heard this type of 'tweak' give significant improvements in speakers which were already very good. The re-wiring should be a doddle (if I can do it, anybody can!), and the same goes for the crossover - it's just a case of choosing the right parts...

 

I was quite sceptical that a couple of feet of wire could make a difference inside a speaker cabinet. I thought that if I provided reasonably good cable that would be ok.

However, I allowed myself to be talked into experimentation by a certain W-M and I was stunned by the improvements that were made when I tried his own strange concoctions. The improvements came throughout the frequency range although I was particularly impressed by what I perceived to be a better control at the bass end.

Now I'd need some persuading to sell my speakers with anything else.

It probably wouldn't be worth using such exotic cable on your Dittons but it would certainly be worth experimenting with lower priced, home made cables. Our own 3DSonics or the guys from TNT-Audio will probably have some good advice on ways to proceed.

 

if you are

going to do it i would mount the crossover outside the speaker maybe attached with some damping between the crossover box and the speaker cabinet. but still try to keep wires as short as poss.
good luck.

 

I wouldn't bother with rewiring your loudspeakers leonard. The benefits of replacing generic 42 strand (typically used) with something a little more 'hi-fi' are at best minimal if of any audible benefit at all. No doubt someone will contradict me and suggest otherwise!

Concentrate instead on the crossover.

By far the best modification I've employed on various loudspeakers is to remove the crossover from the loudspeaker enclosure and place it externally in a separate enclosure. This modification consistently lifts the performance of a loudspeaker. This because electrolytic capacitors are particularly microphonic and sensitive to pressure changes - a loudspeaker enclosure is quite possibly the worst place to put a crossover!

The other approach is to replace crossover components as you suggest. Begin by replacing the series tweeter capacitor with a good quality metallised polypropylene type. SCR is usually a safe bet (available from Wilmslow Audio).

How easy to do? You may find the crossover components covered in copious quantities of epoxy resin – so sometimes quite a challenge just to desolder and remove existing components. Also you will need to allow for the fact that metallised poly caps are considerably larger than electrolytics.

Expect subtle changes in tonal presentation but nothing earth shattering. I'd try converting to external crossovers as an initial modification.



Edit : “No doubt someone will contradict me and suggest otherwise!†Bugger!

 

In that case, I shall start peeking inside the beasts to see if there's anything that looks like a worthwhile change - perhaps just replacing any bellwire with 13 amp mains cable, or even cooker cable!
And Steve, you're right, I'd probably not use anything exotic inside - not because I don't think the big Dittons deserve it (haven't found anything to touch them for less than £4k) - but because I'm a bit mean and don't think hundreds of pounds for a metre of wire represents any sort of value!

 

Try getting something nearer the 30-40 amp mark for the cable, especially for the bass driver - the difference isn't subtle.

 

Surely for hifi as opposed to Motorhead PA levels a 30amp/230V cable (i.e for power handling of up to 6.9KW) should be sufficient? Or would something like a pro-lighting cable (i.e. about 2") do? If so how to attach it?
My amp only produces 645w/channel at 8 ohms...

 

I would Like to say, rewiring isn't subtle, neither is x/over mods either, Len try some M cap supremes and some Craddocks, even made ATc's listenable

 

Leonard,

I can recomend modding older speaker's, although I went a bit further with my humble Kef Coda's! Rebuilding the crossover is my next project. Prototype cabinets have been around for nearly 2 years now, what an understanding wife I have!






Paul.

 

Paul, bracing the 2x2 at the bottom might be an idea, and getting some weight down there too. Arent they a bit unstable? BTW she might be understanding but you would get far more sex if you veneered them (or at least give em a coat of dulux)

 

The cabinets are actually double skinned (apart from the baffle) with the void sand filled and weigh about 55lbs each so they are extreamly top heavy but have turned out to be very stable.
I have been ordered to build some speakers like These by SHMBO, but there is a lot of work in a cabinet like that and I am not sure I want to put some 20 year old budget Kef units in them. One day........


Paul.

 

once spoke to a speaker engineer who stated that he ALWAYS replaces the internal wiring on his personal hi fi speakers because the shite they put inside is cheapo crap they get at a penny per 10m, he said he used the best speaker cable he could afford at the time and the gains were amazing he didn`t mention caps etc though......might be fun but i`d probably f**k it up and regret it for a long time.......!

 

I still have my original pair of Ditton 15s, now stored. Shrink suggested that I 'turn the cones'. Is there mileage in re-wiring these? Might be good practise at diy before turning to something more valuable.

 

This modification is definitely from the school of hi-fi tweakery. Try posting the idea on a loudspeaker design forum and wait for the waves of derision!

Fancy an argument about 'capacitor sound' Tony? My Hovlands would duff up your M cap supremes any day!

 

I've just had a look inside, and firstly they're packed with acoustic foam - the white stuff that's a bit like the inside of a synthetic duvet (I noticed that TNT reckon it's worthwhile replacing this with super-dooper Nordost wadding Any thoughts?)
And as for the wire, bit thicker than bell wire, but still not up with 5 amp lighting cable!
Any thoughts on replacement wire, though I do always lean toward Canford or Maplin heavy duty!
And the crossover is very neat, and bolted to the base of the cabinet (which is incidentaly heavily braced) - about 4 coils, plus a few resistors and caps all marked RS.
Problem is, it's on a circuit board - if I soldered lovely new Hovlands, or Black Gate nubbins or M Cap Supremes none of them would work, what with the splashes of solder I'd no doubt leave everywhere.
Anyone know someone who is:
a) good, and audiophool friendly
b) reasonably priced?

 

If you do replace the wadding Leonard you'll need to stick to something of a similar type and quantity. Wadding that is too different in type, quantity or density will alter the enclosure Q and thus alter the sound.

Has the wadding collapsed and sunk at all? In this case replacement would be a good idea. Given the vintage the wadding is probably long fibre wool - now illegal but still available from Falcon Audio.

http://www.falcon-acoustics.co.uk/pl28p8.htm

TNT reckon a lot of things are worthwhile..

Also if you are going to re-wire avoid soldering directly to the tweeter tags – it doesn't take much heat to bugger up a tweeter!

 

I think you'll find Rich, Ian knows what a heat shunt is for

 

Leonard,

Dont bother with a PCB, alot of audiofool components probably wont fit anyway as they will be far to big. You can use some veroboard or even a bit of hardboard and just point tp point wire everything. Mount the x-over outside the speaker, this makes a worthwhile differance.
Are the speakers ported or sealed? If they are sealed then the amount of wadding wont be to critical, just play around and have a good listen. Everything you do will alter the sound, usually for the better but not always. Do the cheap and reversable mods first and see how you get on.

Paul.

 

The wadding looks like the day the speakers were new - I'm tempted to leave that, but I'll look into a heavier duty cable and see how that goes (heat shunt? wassat? I'm a chemist, not electronics boffin!)
And Paul, the speakers are effectively ported - they've got a 12" passive radiator. And I haven't got a clue how to go about building a new crossover, especially without a circuit diagram.. Looks more complicated than my old valve amps!