Support it

I have an A1000 (surprise) wide and very hot so it needs room to breath. I also have a VRDS20SE. Here's where the problem starts. Its feet are 50cm apart. Thats 2cm bigger than standard shelves and 5cm wider than most "usable widths".

My new home has sprung floors and I reckon some of the degradation I've experienced in moving house is the source/speaker interaction. I tried the Stands Unique because its wide enough but the A1000 is quite microphonic and it sounded dreadful on the glass. So I settled for a habitat metal framed wood slat corner table with marble slabs (pastry board, £5 Ikea) that did the job. Until I moved to a 1930's home that is.

Short of buying a Townsend which a) looks like an oil rig b) ouch! mucho cash, any suggestions?

And I've already heard the suggestion "move".
Thanks

 

You don't have to go for the whole Townshend rack, just a Seismic Sink under the CDP should help a lot. Alternatively I think you can get Seismic Sinks (the ones made for speakers) strong enough to support a whole rack.

Michael.

 

Thanks, never considered a Townsend speaker support. Could be the ticket.
If anyone has suggestions on dedicated supports for excess of 50cm width I would still be pleased to hear. Its preferable to selling the TEAC

 

I'm surprised the Teac is so wide. Teac, like most Japanese kit, is usually 19" wide - ie standard rackmount width (P0 style exotica excepted).
My VRDS50 fits on a Quadraspire shelf with ease FWIW.

 

Try Isoblue or Hutter if it's a woody thing you want. I use Hutter and am more than happy with it. It comes in various sizes and finishes so can be made to fir most kit and also is high in WAF.

Isoblue is cheaper smaller and not quite so flexible but those who use it love it.

Both are available in Reading

 

I would be *really* interested to see how a Teac fitted in an Isoblue / hutter type rack.
I wonder if Hutter do Accuphase power amp size racks :banana:

 

Joel

The 20SE was the one with the round aluminium posts on each corner and seperate pointed pucks for these "masts" to stand on.

Here check this its a picture of a gold one
http://www.audioreview.com/GALPhoto_59426crx.aspx

 

My Teac VRDS-T1 (which I'm assuming is about the same size as all other Teac VRDS machines) doesn't fit at all in my IsoBlue DIY imitation:



I believe that with the genuine Isoblue you can get taller feet to make the rack taller but even then I think it would have trouble fitting.

Michael.

 

ahh. That one - didn't realize it was so big. Certainly looks mighty fine. Interestingly Teac have moved back to the "All-in-one" style case for the new top end machines, and the new mono amps have pillars inside of the chassis.
The buttons are off Teac's old cassette and open reel decks, if anyone is interested.

 

michealab

Very different. A T1 is small in comparison. Check the link to the gold one I gave earlier. Imagine a T1 and then add the pillars. A 20se is a minutae under 20 inches wide and had that "I'm made for a studio" look. Even if it wasn't.


And I cannot use these supports because I also own an A1000.

Thanks for the thought cos I hear they sound good.

 

Quadraspire? I find QS to be good with hot-running amps as well.

Question for Teac owners in Europe and the US. How much does your Teac weigh?

 

Design your own rack, and get it built.

For £130 or so, I put my own rack together, which included having a local welding shop source and weld the frame. Also included 30mm granite shelves, each of which sits on an inner tube (seismic sink style), and expensive soundcare superspike feet.

This way you can get exactly what you want. Also, I find that most of the racks you can buy from a hifi shop resonate badly (even when there are items on the shelves) if you flick them. Mine remains absolutely dead, with a mass of over 100kg, sand in the uprights, solid steel elsewhere in the frame, and the significant mass of the granite on the inner tubes absorbing a great deal of energy.

For just two shelves, for the A1000 and the VRDS, it wouldn't cost as much as my 4 shelf version did. Using conventional spikes (about £2) instead of superspikes (£38) will also save a lot.

 

Will this do

 

Why not try an Ash Design Classic 4 ?

Turntable users can order a larger piece for glass for the top shelp which can go up to 60cm wide.

I use a Classic 4 and it has LOADS of space on top and underneath, looks great and doesn't seem to made my kit sound worse .

 

This is good, lots of contribution.
Sadly, obviously not many people have had or seen an A1000. I can't use a Hutter style rack. It must have clear sides for the sinks and two shelves for its power supply too.
Glass shelves are out.

Making one sounds like the best option and shelf material can be my choice. I'll get the yellow pages out to find out the cost.

 

I'm too hasty with my replies. That ash design also looks good. I could place something on the glass to help the amp. Ta.

 

A1000- If you wanted to build a scaled version of mine, then I'm sure that the welding shop that did it for me would be happy to do so again. They charged me £60 for mine, and since yours would require less material and fewer welds, it should cost less if anything. That price was for me to take away the bare metal frame... you'd have to sand, prime and paint it yourself. If you wanted to go that way, I work in swindon, which is pretty much halfway between gloucester and reading, so if you get out that way you could pick it up. PM me if you're interested, or want more info on the design I used.

 

www.ashdesign.com

 

Tom, that Hutter's rubbish, its only at phase 2.

 

I'll convince you yet.

Racktime has arched sides to let the air in and can be made double width with any height between shelves. Maximum number of shelves is six but I can't be arsed to mock up another picture for you. Sorry. You could look at the Hutter Holz site if you need more convincing.