Why cables can be expensive

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi and General Audio' started by SCIDB, Jun 5, 2010.

  1. SCIDB

    TonyL Club Krautrock Plinque

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    I'm firmly in the 'tin first' camp, though I can't think of a situation where I've had to join two wires like that. My soldering is limited to cables and changing the odd cap in speaker crossovers. Tin the plug, tin the cable, then bring them together and heat the joint until it flows. Job done.

    Tony.
     
    TonyL, Jun 25, 2010
  2. SCIDB

    Dev Moderator

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    Ditto.
     
    Dev, Jun 25, 2010
  3. SCIDB

    RobHolt Moderator

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    Tin both is definitely best IMO.

    If soldering caps or semiconductors (inc op amps) you want a good hot iron and don't keep the iron on the join for any longer than absolutely necessary as these components are easily damaged.

    Having both parts of the join pre-tined is likely to reduce the time the iron need be in contact.
    Also, solders with high silver content have a higher melting point so think about the implications if you really want to use it.
     
    RobHolt, Jun 25, 2010
  4. SCIDB

    TonyL Club Krautrock Plinque

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    Years back a friend asked me to solder up some Kimber PBJ using some fancy silver solder he'd bought, it was a horrible job, the stuff just doesn't flow properly. I'll stick to my reel of old-style solder.

    Tony.
     
    TonyL, Jun 25, 2010
  5. SCIDB

    felix part-time Horta

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    Agree on 'tin both' . I would add - use the biggest iron you dare.

    More poor joints are caused by using 'not enough heat, applied for too long; than anything else. Really - a bloody big iron for just long enough just works *so* much better.

    (eg even 30-40w on a SMT component that just does the job is not excessive when the alternative is tryng to dance around it with something rather 'smaller' and damaging the PCB instead)
     
    felix, Jun 25, 2010
  6. SCIDB

    Richard Dunn

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    If you are in any way serious a temperature controlled solder station is essential, and not that expensive £40 odd pounds from Rapid Electronics.
     
    Richard Dunn, Jun 25, 2010
  7. SCIDB

    Dave Simpson Plywood King

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    Thanks for tips fellas!

    Seems like I got the wrong impression that pre-tinning burns off the flux which helps with removing the oxidation that might be encountered on something like a banana plug which won't be pre-tinned. That's why I skipped the pre-tinning step assuming proper solder flow through a wire's individual strands would be best as it ensures the plug's surface got cleaned before the flux burned off. Again, I probably over thought the process or just misunderstood.

    I'll review best practices again:

    http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

    Seconding the recommendation of buying a soldering station. Got a Weller unit myself some twenty years ago and have never regretted it especially when making unwieldy speaker cables or welding bundles of thick solid core. The difference over a pencil iron is amazing even for the occasional solderer like myself. My joins improved instantly!

    regards,

    dave
     
    Dave Simpson, Jun 26, 2010
  8. SCIDB

    bottleneck talks a load of rubbish

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    HI Dave

    I think Richards point (and Tony's etc) are quite right - it depends what you are soldering.

    If using a PCB of any type, and pre-tinned cap/resistor legs - there is no need for pre-tinning.. the electronics industry is about speed of manufacture - there is no time for such long winded practice.

    hobbyists and garden shed manufacturing relies on a different model of construction.
     
    bottleneck, Jun 26, 2010
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