seems like there is ample plate dissipation in this puppy! i think this looks like a winner!
300b operating specs / reliability...
- Thread starter blakeaudio
- Start date
seems like there is ample plate dissipation in this puppy! i think this looks like a winner!
the amp:
the tube:
it seems the tube exceeds the requirement of the amp in every way. is it a problem if the amp provides a lower plate current and filament voltage? i thought (though i am certainly no expert...) that these were maximum rating and that the tubes would be better off seeing lower volages / currents?
In general,it shouldn't be a problem,as long as there is sufficient to drive the tube adequately,and it may well be worth emailing VAC with your intentions regarding the tubes,to see what their advice is before buying what will obviously be a fairly expensive set of tubes.
Quick note.
The KR tubes mentioned take one and a half times the standard 300B filament current, make sure that the amp is capable of providing this.
Chris
The KR tubes mentioned take one and a half times the standard 300B filament current, make sure that the amp is capable of providing this.
Chris
3DSonics
away working hard on "it"
Hi,
The VAC Amp's run their 300B's SERIOUSLY HARD. Lifespan is rather short. RUn like in the VAC even a WE 300B is only a 2,000 Hour Valve. I would suggest you avoid the VAC Amp's simply for that. You will not note much reduced SPL if you use an Amp that limits itself to only around 18 - 20W from a pair of 300B's but the lifespanm goes up no end, plus certain rather good sounding valves can be used (the TJ Mesh Anode 300B is NOT usable in the VAC). Also, the VAC uses the worst sounding PP Amp circuit (Williamson) and the worst sounding driver/input valve (6SN7) of the commonly found types.
If you get an "open chassis" Amp you can always add a glass hood silimar to WAVAC to make it safe for kittens, puppies and rugrats.
Even better, build your own and build it into a big 19" Case. You can build a stunning sounding Amp (consider a DRD with C3g driver and 300B plus type valve for > 15W SE) for a lot less than the VAC costs and just hide the plain 19" cases away.... ;-)
Ciao T
blakeaudio said:
The VAC Amp's run their 300B's SERIOUSLY HARD. Lifespan is rather short. RUn like in the VAC even a WE 300B is only a 2,000 Hour Valve. I would suggest you avoid the VAC Amp's simply for that. You will not note much reduced SPL if you use an Amp that limits itself to only around 18 - 20W from a pair of 300B's but the lifespanm goes up no end, plus certain rather good sounding valves can be used (the TJ Mesh Anode 300B is NOT usable in the VAC). Also, the VAC uses the worst sounding PP Amp circuit (Williamson) and the worst sounding driver/input valve (6SN7) of the commonly found types.
If you get an "open chassis" Amp you can always add a glass hood silimar to WAVAC to make it safe for kittens, puppies and rugrats.
Even better, build your own and build it into a big 19" Case. You can build a stunning sounding Amp (consider a DRD with C3g driver and 300B plus type valve for > 15W SE) for a lot less than the VAC costs and just hide the plain 19" cases away.... ;-)
Ciao T
well, bonuses were announced yesterday and the unit that i was after was sold .... yesterday. NOT to me i hasten to add. so this is all a bit academic at the moment. the new price is very high, so i think i will be waiting a while before another used example comes up. i'm not willing to take that first owner depreciation....
