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batfink

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I'm sure I read a thread on here a while back that gave me the impression quite a few of you were into cycling and knew quite a lot about the gear available.

I'm thinking of training for a triathlon (not this season, but for next), but I'm missing one thing - a bike. I do loads of swimming and running, but the only cycling opportunity I have is at the gym which obviously doesn't reflect the great outdoors.

I don't want to spend too much, just in case I'm cr*p at it. I know beginners generally use any bike they own, but I don't own any bike so I'm at a serious disadvantage :(

Can anyone recommend what to buy and where to buy it that isn't too pricey ?
 
The biggest mistake that beginner cyclists make is to peddle too slowly. You should aim for at least 60 cycles per second. I tend to stick at about 80. Some pros peddle at 100 cycles per second. This places less strain on the knee joints and muscles. I often find I can cruise at 2 mph faster by shifting down one gear and spinning those cranks.

As for bikes, light weight is the order of the day. Don't go for unnecessary accessories like full suspension unless you really need them. If you only ride on fairly decent roads then you don't need suspension. Light weight doesn't necessarily mean aluminium either. There are some excellent light weight steel bikes out there.
 
Have a look at http://www.cyclingtimetrials.org.uk/index.asp?Area=Class there are some good bargains to be had from the hardcore roadies who change bikes on a regular basis.

As a beginner I wouldn't go over the top on trying to get a super low profile tri bike, just a basic road bike with thin tyres will do nicely. I would have thought that a couple of hundred quid would get you something very nice, and 400 hundred quid gets this! I had one of these and raced tri for a couple of years quite happily on it.

Medium Giant TCR with Carbon Fork. White and Blue
Low Mileage, in garage since Sept 03!
105 Groupset. Ritchey Seatpost/Bars and Selle Italia saddle.
No wheels.
Pictures.
Professional service before sale.
£400
 
Philip King said:
Have a look at
Medium Giant TCR with Carbon Fork. White and Blue
Low Mileage, in garage since Sept 03!
105 Groupset. Ritchey Seatpost/Bars and Selle Italia saddle.
No wheels.
Click to expand...

something of a design flaw in a bicycle :D

I know, I know![/QUOTE]
 
I used to love cycling but I am at the age now where the public won't take too kindly for me doing 30mph on a bike which I used to (it had a speedometer). The roads near me are also too dangerous but if we had proper cycle lanes where cars can't access I would cycle much more than I get the bus.
 
For triathlon you definitely want a road bike (aka racing bike) and not a mountain bike, just in case that wasn't obvious ;)

As Philip suggested s/h would be your best bet for value for money. If you're near London check out www.evanscycles.com , they have a few shops in the London area and a pretty good selection of road bikes.

Also, once you start training seriously you'll definitely want a pair of clipless pedals and cycling shoes with the special clipless binding. Like toe clips and straps, they keep your foot perfectly positioned on the pedal and allow you to pull up on the pedals aswell as push down. IMO you can put as much as double the energy into it as without. The advantage of clipless is that your foot is locked into the pedal with a special binding like a ski binding but you can very quickly release it with just a quick sideways twist of your foot. Toe straps on the other hand you have to reach down to undo with your hand. A real PITA and potentially very dangerous in traffic. I use clipless pedals just for commuting to work (when I'm in London) and I can't imagine cycling without them now.

However, don't worry about finding a bike with clipless pedals right away, you can always fit them later easily.

Michael.
 
Of course, chris meant per minute, not per second.

Sage advice so far. You will find that weight in the wheels is most noticeable as you've got to accelerate that weight rotationally as well as in your overall direction of travel. Thus saving 100g on your wheels is much more noticeable than 100g from the frame or groupset.

On a partially related note, something you may wish to invest in for this event and general cycling and running is a Camelbak hydration system. These are small backpacks with a reservoir containing 2-3 litres of fluid. They are somewhat insulated, and can accept ice in the reservoir. A tube comes out and over your shoulder to a clip, and so you can take regular, short gulps whilst riding or running. The effect of a quick hit of cold drink when you're cycling is amazing.

I spent 5 hours working on my bike last night (new hoses, bleeding, new tyres, general clean, rebuilt rear mech (pulleys were seized solid and running on the washers, not the bearings), etc), and there's always more to do. If you get more into it then you may wish to learn how to maintain the bike yourself to tip-top condition, as it will give you an advantage.
 
Two of my previous bikes had toe clips. I never had trouble slipping out of them in traffic. Just don't have them too tight. As well as being able to 'lift' the pedal using clips or clipless, another technique for injecting a little extra power for little effort is called 'heeling and toeing'. As you reach the bottom of the downward stroke, just dip your toe downwards to add a little more. As the upward stroke starts lift the toe upwards. I wouldn't do it all the time but it is particularly useful for maintaining pace on small inclines.
 
Isaac Sibson said:
Of course, chris meant per minute, not per second.
Click to expand...

I was a bit worried about that one!

Looks like if I really get into it, this "hobby" could cost me as much (if not more) than my hi-fi. As a beginner though, I won't invest in too many of the added extras just yet :)

Secondhand sounds like the best idea for VFM.
 
amazingtrade said:
The roads near me are also too dangerous but if we had proper cycle lanes where cars can't access I would cycle much more than I get the bus.
Click to expand...

I think one of the reason's fuelling my interest is the area I live in now (nr Bracknell) is very green and within a minute of leaving the house I can be charging down some country lanes with little or no traffic. I see a lot of "serious" cyclists when I'm out and about.
 
amazingtrade said:
I used to love cycling but I am at the age now where the public won't take too kindly for me doing 30mph on a bike which I used to (it had a speedometer). The roads near me are also too dangerous but if we had proper cycle lanes where cars can't access I would cycle much more than I get the bus.
Click to expand...

Screw that - I'm partially sighted and regularly knock up 35+ mph on the road (downhill mind you) - 25mph average cruise on the flat. Cycling rules!

I could do with some pointers re better tyres for my Specialized Hardrock HR though ;) (it's an ATB/downhill sprint optimised bike, and I'm sure I can get past 40mph with the right rubber (39.0 is my best so far!).

Oh - I should remember that that area is a 30mph zone as well - oops!
 
domfjbrown said:
Screw that - I'm partially sighted and regularly knock up 35+ mph on the road (downhill mind you) - 25mph average cruise on the flat. Cycling rules!
Click to expand...
Blimey Dom! I struggle to get mine up to 20 mph and there's only one place on my route to work where I can get it up to that speed and that's through the woods along the old railway trackbed. Mine's not that light though as it has front suspension, sprung seat tube and semi-chunky tyres - and it has me on it :lol:
 
technobear said:
Mine's not that light though as it has front suspension, sprung seat tube and semi-chunky tyres - and it has me on it :lol:
Click to expand...

I've got mildly chunky tires on mine, and front suspension too :) I just rag it like a loon! Mind you, 73kgs/6ft3=lots of torgue (and I walk everywhere usually, and can outswim many front crawlers when I do breast stroke (well, I did when I was fit enough to swim!) so I guess it's in those legs :) I reckon I can do better if I cut out smoking :)

Lhatkins still can't fathom how I get the speed I do out of it, but we've cross ref'd our speedos and mine reads right :)

Speed kills, but I'm too young to die! That said, looking out of the window, it looks like my brakes'll be next to useless again - it appears to be on the verge of peeing it down again!

Oh - I managed to totally wear out a bottom bracket in 400 miles - not good! Methinks I'm cycling at too high an RPM, so am aiming for around 60 strokes/min, but it was nearly double that in top gear on that infamous hill yesterday - still only 37.4 mph! I left the bike here overnight so I could get that l'il Naim pre home in one piece yesterday :)

BTW - I have a 1920s-style air horn on the bike (very loud) and am on the lookout for a set of spokey dokeys and an orange flag ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
domfjbrown said:
Screw that - I'm partially sighted and regularly knock up 35+ mph on the road (downhill mind you) - 25mph average cruise on the flat. Cycling rules!

I could do with some pointers re better tyres for my Specialized Hardrock HR though ;) (it's an ATB/downhill sprint optimised bike, and I'm sure I can get past 40mph with the right rubber (39.0 is my best so far!).

Oh - I should remember that that area is a 30mph zone as well - oops!
Click to expand...


I forgot to mention that this was one on the pavements though!! And it was some cheapo halfords heavy bike which would have been lethal if I had ran some body over.

I just think if I was to go out on the streets of Manchester on a bike I would get my self killed as my co-ordinaiton is not very good.
 
feckin' cyclists. keep off the bloody pavements - pay road tax too if you use the roads and you should have mandatory insurance as well.
cheers


julian
 
I hit 32.1 mph on sunday down a hill according to my GPS. Felt as though it was dragging though, and when I was working on it yesterday I found the rear mech pulleys were seized and running on the washers rather than the bearings. More speed on the cards! I've also now swapped to semi-slicks (Panaracer Mach SS Kevlar, instead of WTB Velociraptor OEM Steel). If it would stop chucking it down, I'd go out and ride it one of these days...
 

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