Cycling

Hydraulic rim brakes can be retrofitted. They come with adaptors that allow them to mount on cantilever mounts. A set of magura HS33s is around £100 or so, so they aren't cheap. Also, be sure that your frame, forks and rims are strong enough. Hydraulics are several orders of magnitude more powerful, and because of the way they work there's no flex within them, so they flex the frame/fork (they need boosting to minimise this). There are recorded cases of snapped frames, forks and crushed rims due to magura rim brakes.

 

ya its rideable just the brake rub, so ya I'll book it in to have that sorted out, your right I wouldna't have the patience, skill or the tools to do it myself.

The hydrolics system isn't as pricey as I though then, I thought it would more than that, I'll invistage that idea, I know I don't like spending money but I also don't like not having brakes and I really want to live, so this could be an option.

Cool thanks guys.

 

HS33s: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/v2_product_detail.asp?ProdID=5300004275

A much cheaper option is a set of V brakes:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/v2_product_detail.asp?ProdID=4000000778

I find Vs far too flexible and spongy though (yes, I have tried XTs and XTRs, boosted as well) as I like a very firm modulation. Hydraulic brakes take a little getting used to as they don't have the snap back when you let go of the lever since there's no spring to do so, just the hydraulic pressure pushing the lever back, and they feel loose when you first touch the lever as you've no cable resistance to work against. The upshot is that you can feel much more accurately what they're doing. This is, of course, personal opinion.

I've found some discs to feel spongy, but I believe this to be poor setup, causing one pad to come into contact with the disc first, and flex it over until it meets the other pad. This will rapidly lead to disc warping.

 

So what is the advantage of V-brakes ovre Canti's then? Ya that is a much cheaper option. I certainly need to sort these brakes out. £30 for front and rear set, I think thats dam good, shame they're out of stock. But I might have a look to see if Evan Cycles have some.

 

Id echo that.

A skilled wheelbuilder (decent bike shop) can fix most warped wheels to run true by adjusting spoke tension. This is your cheapest option by far.

Using better brakes on a warped wheel will just compound your problem IMHO.

 

V brakes work in essentially the same way as cantilevers, but the lever is longer so more force can be applied. They also have a side-pull mechanism, so that you don't have to mess around with cable hangers and the like.

For your immediate needs, Vs will be more than adequate, if you get the wheel sorted too. However, if you want to buy something to look to put on your future bike as a long-term proposition, I'd be more inclined to go with the maguras.

 

Damn right - I had a wheel out of true within a week of getting my bike; mind you, I also managed to physically wrench the front gears round because I was putting too much torgue into the pedals (well, the bike was ex-dem too, so not sure how good a job they did getting it together).

I use these brake pads (I think I've got V brakes):


They are still crap in the wet though - as I found out when I got broadsided by a bus on Tuesday! Luckily neither vehicle nor me was hurt. I can't get my front brake REALLY tight as the V pulls over to one side - not quite sure why - but there's still enough grip to put all my weight through it, pushing along the floor with the front brake on, for no forward motion of the bike whatsoever

 

Note two of today's Olympic XC medallists were using discs. In XC, weight matters.

 

The winner of today's wasn't - Avid vbrakes, methinks.
When it's dry, and you're used to the pump factor (i.e. the forearm pain from hard braking with vbrakes) then the v's win.. They're not likely to clog with mud and are lighter. Saying that, many pro xc riders hedge their bets by having front v's and rear discs, as ultimately, it's the rear that's going to stop or steer you on a steep descent..

I started off as a road rider - got a built-for-me Donohue Millenium with Campag Record, which I used to commute 50 miles a day on (in London!). Top speed was 55mph, which I know because I was stopped by the police wot with it being a 30 limit!
Into mountain biking in a big way now - in the process of buying the lightest XC bike I can afford (possibly a Cannondale), though I'm still debating the discs thing - does get very muddy at my local forest!

And Batfink - make sure you get a bike that fits, or you'll end up with years worth of osteopath treatment behind you, like I did...
Oh, and there isn't really any need to get Vs much better than Shimano Deore if you're not seriously off-roading - though Avids are the best..

 

clearly you can ride as the rest of the post says, but if you are not a stick insect xc rider then be warned that Cannondales do/did have a very nasty habit of breaking. They simply make the frames too thin. For a similar ride have a look at the titanium GT/Kona or an ali Merlin.

Avid brakes rock, no questions. Got most of the mens XC on Swedish TV today, really good coverage. Well done to the 22 year old Brit who came in 6th, top performance!

Edit: it was Liam Killeen and he came 5th!

 

Cannondales breaking? Ive never heard that before! (didnt they used to do a lifetime warranty on their frames?)

If you like aluminium, for a bang for buck alu frame, a GT Zaskar is good value at around 299 for the frame. You could XT it and add some decent forks and you'd be under a grand.

When Klein got bought out the prices of their bikes dropped hugely, and were good value last time I looked (are they still going?)

Steel MTB frames offer great value for money, now they sell Kona at halfords, Id bet the frame/bike prices will drop.

Ti frames are great, but its another price bracket.

Im a big fan of Pace forks if there is budget for some good ones.

BTW I think its a great idea to get the best possible frame, as you can always upgrade the bits as money and time allows.

Theres nothing better than getting a new bike! aaah the smell of it.

 

Lets hope not - I've just bought one off ebay - S (or H?) 900 with xtr groupset (XT discs) and Lefty single sided front fork. At least I'm only 145lbs..
Hopefully it'll stop me from falling off as much as I often do - today I crashed twice! Once on a very steep and slippery hill, got overtaken by my rear wheel and slid down in the mud.. Then while desperately trying to avoid a large patch of nettles made the fatal mistake of fixating on them, hit a rut and went in face first Amazing how much those buggers sting - I'd put them in pet hates - apart from the fact they're probably getting me back for:
1) Heavy duty strimming
2) Nettle soup earlier in the year (mmm!)

 

Here's an idea - I notice a lot of places sell the individual bits for bikes (frame etc). Would making my own up be a cost effective way of doing it? (if I knew what I was doing!!)

 

In a word NO, its actually quite tricky getting all the exact sizes etc to match up, and like all things customisable you'll end up blowing ya budget before you finish, (been there done that). Get a complete bike with the best frame possible and then upgrade from there. An older bike with last years colours/gears on sale for example is generally the best way of doing this.

On the other hand the sense of ownership and individuality that comes with building a bike up from scratch is great.

 

What's a good (cheap) roadbike price likely to be second hand? My Specialized Hardrock HR is nice, but as an ATB, it's both heavy and I can only get a max of 39mph out of it (I don't think I can break the 40mph barrier on the hill I tried it on!)?

How do roadbikes fare with potholes etc? Exeter's roads aren't exactly smooth these days...

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried riding one of those Olympics bikes in a velodrome? Is the cambre of the track as steep as it looks? I bet I'd fall off!

 

Its way, way, way steaper!

 

Just think of the wall of death...

Philip is right, you will get a much much better deal if you buy a complete bike, then modify it. I'm making a few changes to mine at the moment, but can't afford to do what I'd like really...

 

There's virtually nothing a MTB will that a good roadbike wont except maybe absolute abuse.

When wheels are newly built after about 100 miles they settle (buckle, particuarly the rear one) if they are then trued they should last for 1000's of miles.

Virtually anyone can build a good wheel,some like those Mavic SSC's almost true themselves but this is the easy part,the difficult bit is getting them truely concentric say within 2 thou is the other,from left to right they should better this (these tolerances are rarely found on over the counters,only on DIY).I always used vaseline on spoke seats and copperslip on threads.

Spoke lengths can be pain but IIRC 36 small flange 3 X with 700c were 298mm and of course the rear gear side (offset) 296mm but if you have any difficulties with radials or oddballs ring a reputable cycle repair shop for advice.

Dependant on your area but good older Reynolds 531 road bikes weighing about 21 lbs can be bought for about 50 notes (yes they will need a sedis chain and the seats tatty) but if your needs are a 14 lb Lance Armstrong special then the price rises a 100 fold plus,the choice is yours.

next week brakes.

 

Hi Batfink,
Sorry I'm a bit late to this thread. I was looking for a road bike for a while and bought myself a second hand Cannondale a couple of weeks ago. Nice bike it is. There are alot of questions that will pop up once you start looking and the best place i found to go for road bike advice is the forums on the cycling plus website http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk
They also have a good 2nd hand section. If you want any more sites for 2nd hand give me a shout and I'll post all the sites I used during the course of my search.
Get on it though, can't beat getting out on the bike. Mountain bikes are obviously great but make sure you have some nice rides nearby otherwise you might find yourself going to the same places, road bikes are good as there are often loads of routes you can take from your doorstep and really get some miles in without feeling you're wasting your energy through chunky tyres etc.
HM

 

Eh?? That's all over my head I'm afraid What's a sedis chain? I guess a brand of chain?? As for saddle, that's not a big problem.

Out of curiosity, for an average to maybe half-way decent-ish MTB (eg my Specialized HardRock) going at 30 mph on average MTB tyres on the road, would a roadbike be significantly faster for the same power input??? I'm sure I can go faster than I do on mine - 16.4 mph average on the way to work today (half of it on a loooong uphill haul) can be bettered I'm sure - even with full inflation I'm sure I'm losing a lot in the tyres...

I guess next stop = road-only tyres (I never take the bike off-road)....