Nakamichi CDP2 cdplayer

Shouty treble, 90% of bass gone or reduced like 30dB. Something is horribly wrong, I had checked all components befor and after, all contacts (components on pcb) all excellent imo. When time to change/restart cd I noticed treble had changed thank god, bass for most part still missing. Now with 3rd cd bass seems returning, treble is getting better still.
 
Well people say Elna SilmicII need burn in, Oscons I personally heard improve, but these Wima or Panasonic PPS are really beyond compare, truly horrible at first, the sounds gets on your nerves, I hope they are good. I remember salt bags/ moisture indicators with previous shipments of SMD films, these PPS this time weren't sealed or had an indicator packed or instructions. Is this normal? I never before ordered these PPS, other film SMD's a couple of times. Now I wonder if they needed oven befor use on pcb eg.
 
I have only ever purchased SMD PPS caps from Farnell and they come in a strip of individually sealed blister packs. When I changed from polyester to SMD PPS on my Arcam there was a noticeable improvement straight away and I didn't notice any burn in.

I have noticed some 'burn in' changes with Elna Silmic, they got slightly better with use but never sounded unpleasant at the beginning.

Did you change any other components at the same time?
 
OK maybe the Panasonic PPS never come with humidity markers (card with blue or pink dots, colour tells you if product is dry enough or should be baked in oven befor use) and additionally sealed bags and precautions like other film SMD's. I have PEN Panasonics and polymer Rubycons (expensive ones) and Kemet's polyester films that come in standard strip inside dry bag with salt and humidity checker like below (if you never saw such packaging), so I wondered. Just the Wima's TH 1uFs and the PPS's were new.
dry.JPG
 
So today compared to a Yamaha/Sony tda1541A that was little better befor, not close anymore. In every aspect the Nak is superior now, including bass. Still I feel bass remains a little thin compared to earlier (not compared to Yamaha), so easiest and quickest to check will be replacing the Wima's 1uFs on MSB pins for 100nF PPS smd I think, back to all equal. That is just 2 parts :)
 
I had very little time till today, so today I started listening like I had done last two weeks and then removed the two 1uF Wima's and put the 100nF PPS in its places. Immediatly recognised what my thought on bass where from weeks ago, improved in power and detail, overall detail, spatial also improved, maybe 1uF is nice for 1541A, it isn't for this Nak with 1541.
 
That's a very interesting observation, thanks for sharing. I've always increased the capacitance on the MSB pins because everyone says to do it but honestly I'm not sure I have observed a big improvement over 100nF which is after all the standard Philips datasheet value.

I did however definitely notice a difference when swapping from boxed polyester caps to surface mount 100nF PPS on my Arcam. As far as I'm concerned SMD PPS are the ultimate bit decoupling caps for the TDA1541 right now.

As I understand it the inductance of the capacitors is very important which may explain why SMD are so good.

Which Wima caps did you use on the MSBs? 1uF MKS2?
 
Yes they were Wima MKS2. Earlier all had leggs, so inductance for all was higher, maybe the different inductance on different pins matters somehow.
 
I use this player. It is an outstanding player in every sense. It has to be the best player i have used.
 

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