NVA components

quickie · May 27, 2007

LS1 is 7x strands of 30 awg silver plated copper ptfe insulated wire per mono run:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Cable/Single+Wire/PRO+POWER/100-30BK/displayProduct.jsp?sku=143381

Sheathed in this :

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Cable/Sle...WER/PET6BK50MR/displayProduct.jsp?sku=3223322

1mm twin and earth lighting cable works well and is recommended by the company as a cheap starter cable,but the LS1 sounds much better.

Constructing DIY LS1 is quite fiddly and with the prices NVA charge for the cable its not worth bothering imo.

Paul.

SCIDB · May 27, 2007

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harrygrey382 said:
What's the difference in using a few separate (untwisted) strands of cat5 PTFE (teflen?) coated wire, and how the cable manufacturers do it?

Inductance is less when twisted. What is done is to twist and braid many pair of Cat5 cable. Here are some examples

http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html

http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html

This twising and braid will give it Litz effects. Low inductance and reduction in effect of magnetic fields will occur.

Different companies will use different methods on their cables.

SCIDB

SCIDB · May 27, 2007

harrygrey382 said:
hmm, sounds a good way to go then. Would anywhere have a capacitance meter I could use?
ALso, on his site Richard Dunn says the LS1s are just groups of 7 separate wires in a tube (in bubble wrap or something, doesn't go into detail). Then a completely separate lot for the other terminal. Is this a method for killing capacitance, running completely separate lengths for + and -?

Hi,

The + & - conductors are then well seperated. This will very much reduce capacitance.

SCIDB

harrygrey382 · May 27, 2007

good one quickie, so are they just bunched together then? What's so fiddly about it, getting them all through the sheath? If that's all I'm tempted. Although his prices are cheap compared to some, I still have something stopping me spending much on cables, not because I'm don't think they make a difference, but because I'd much prefer to DIY them. Should be a hell of a lot cheaper?

So does the fact the + and - are far apart mean inductance is also reduced?

SCIDB · May 27, 2007

harrygrey382 said:
good one quickie, so are they just bunched together then? What's so fiddly about it, getting them all through the sheath? If that's all I'm tempted. Although his prices are cheap compared to some, I still have something stopping me spending much on cables, not because I'm don't think they make a difference, but because I'd much prefer to DIY them. Should be a hell of a lot cheaper?

Very few companies have the facilites to roll their own cables. (ie make then from scratch). Most Companies will buy products off the shelf and make them up themselves.

As with make things, money will be saved by doing it yourself.

harrygrey382 said:
So does the fact the + and - are far apart mean inductance is also reduced?

No. As I said before to you need to bring the conductors closer together.

SCIDB

harrygrey382 · May 27, 2007

OK so it's all about a compremise between the inductance and capacitance. What are the negatives of having an inductive cable, and are some amps more tolerant of this than others? More to the point, I wonder if NVA ones are!?

SCIDB · May 27, 2007

harrygrey382 said:
OK so it's all about a compremise between the inductance and capacitance. What are the negatives of having an inductive cable, and are some amps more tolerant of this than others? More to the point, I wonder if NVA ones are!?

Hi,

Low inductance should give better frequency response, less high end roll off. It can also cut down on phase shifts and distiortion.

Most cables have moderate inductance and capacitance so they are not a problem. It is a case of stuck it and see.

NVA amps are not tolerant of every cable, hence they highly recommend their own. A high capacitance could blow them up. So a lowish capacitance cable is needed.
Most amps have compensation networks which kept them stable. They wont be affected by highish capacitance.

Dean

Tootlepip · May 27, 2007

Currently i am using an Audiolab 8000A connected to a pair of single driver TBI Diamonds(US) by thick Linn multistrand cable which was popular some years ago. I also have a BK Electronics sub. The speakers arent efficient( 87db) but are adequate in my room as its small and 50 watt max power is recommended for them.I have even used a Sonic triamp with them and they were ok.Anyway I saw the NVA products and was reminded about how good they sounded but the cable issue rather threw me. I am rather tempted by them nad i wondered whether to try a pair of his cables first to see if they are all that and go from there.Sometimes I get a bit of distortion at some frequencies ( kind of like a rattling sound) and thought maybe the cables are wrong
Speakers are these:

http://www.tbisound.com/dsp_products_monitors_d1.asp

Tenson · May 27, 2007

Tootlepip said:
Sometimes I get a bit of distortion at some frequencies ( kind of like a rattling sound) and thought maybe the cables are wrong

No, the Audiolab will be happy with most cables as far as I know, and anyway no cable is likely to make something sound like it is rattling. More likely the speakers distort (cone is hitting the end stops on bassy tracks?) or something in the speaker or near it is rattling.

Tootlepip · May 27, 2007

Tenson said:
No, the Audiolab will be happy with most cables as far as I know, and anyway no cable is likely to make something sound like it is rattling. More likely the speakers distort (cone is hitting the end stops on bassy tracks?) or something in the speaker or near it is rattling.

not so much the bass notes but the other end.I noticed it with my TV as well but since I changed from Sky to V+ digibox tyhe problem went. Difficult to describe the sound - rattling or buzzing at louder higher frequencies i would say and only apparent now and again

Tenson · May 27, 2007

You mean it is there with the TV making sound, or with the TV sound playing through your hi-fi? It sounds like an issue with the speakers.

Tootlepip · May 27, 2007

Tenson said:
You mean it is there with the TV making sound, or with the TV sound playing through your hi-fi? It sounds like an issue with the speakers.

the tvs own in built speakers , or so i thought at the time so I sent it back for repairs which mad e no diffrence and it was only when I changed from Sky+ to Virgin that the problem disappeared I should say at this point that i keep my HiFi system separate. As i said its most difficult to explain the distortion give it a name as in harmonic or whatever

Tenson · May 27, 2007

So you have heard it both from your Hi-Fi and from the TV? If that's the case it seems logical that it is something else entirely. Possibly an item in the room that vibrates at a certain frequency.

RobHolt · May 27, 2007

Tenson said:
No, the Audiolab will be happy with most cables as far as I know

Audiolab amps are utterly bomb-proof when it comes to cables.

Tootlepip · May 28, 2007

Tenson said:
So you have heard it both from your Hi-Fi and from the TV? If that's the case it seems logical that it is something else entirely. Possibly an item in the room that vibrates at a certain frequency.

Yes i'll probably move the speakers around a bit, try different things. Make anot of which tracks do it and go from there

Tootlepip · May 28, 2007

What i find slightly annoying is that it would appear his speaker cables( in fact all his cables) are sold singly. Whats the good of that??One doesnt but speakers singly after all

Set of speaker cable =one cable terminated at both ends??Bit of a rip off me thinks. There must be alternatives out there.

SCIDB · May 28, 2007

Hi Tootlepip,

Richard Dunn (NVA) sells his cable in sets. So you get enough lengths for a stereo pair, i.e. 4 runs (two +ve & two -ve). £20 per set for a metre length. These are sold on ebay at many length

A set for for 3 meters would cost £60 or less.

Here are other that have been recommended by NVA. Taken from his website.

"Listed below are acceptable speaker cables. If cables other than these are used, our guarantee will be invalidated.

* NVA LS1
* Nordost (all types)
* DNM (all types)
* Q cable (all types)
Audio Note AND & AND 70
Audioquest F-14, F-18 and Argent
Cable Talk 3 and 4
Chord Company Rumour and Myth
Heybrook Haywire
Ixos Hardcore 6 and 12
Mission Quartet
Monster Cable XP
Naim NAC A5
Ortofon SPK100 & SPK300
QED Qudos
Rega Cable
Silver Sonic T-14
Sonic Link Care Music Cable
Supra Cable 10
Van den Hul Revolution & CS122
XLO Pro Type 625, 0.6 and Pro 600

If a cheap starter cable is required then use Twin and Earth solid core mains cable from a hardware store.

Only the cables with a star are recommended for sonic performance and value by NVA. The remainder are electrically compatible and may prove suitable in your system, but have not been assessed sonically. As a rule, avoid cables of more than 200pF per meter (65 pF per foot) as an outside limit. Also, speaker cables should not be over 10 meters (33 feet) in length. "

SCIDB

Tootlepip · May 29, 2007

SCIDB said:
Hi Tootlepip,

Richard Dunn (NVA) sells his cable in sets. So you get enough lengths for a stereo pair, i.e. 4 runs (two +ve & two -ve). £20 per set for a metre length. These are sold on ebay at many length

A set for for 3 meters would cost £60 or less.

Here are other that have been recommended by NVA. Taken from his website.

"Listed below are acceptable speaker cables. If cables other than these are used, our guarantee will be invalidated.

* NVA LS1
* Nordost (all types)
* DNM (all types)
* Q cable (all types)
Audio Note AND & AND 70
Audioquest F-14, F-18 and Argent
Cable Talk 3 and 4
Chord Company Rumour and Myth
Heybrook Haywire
Ixos Hardcore 6 and 12
Mission Quartet
Monster Cable XP
Naim NAC A5
Ortofon SPK100 & SPK300
QED Qudos
Rega Cable
Silver Sonic T-14
Sonic Link Care Music Cable
Supra Cable 10
Van den Hul Revolution & CS122
XLO Pro Type 625, 0.6 and Pro 600

If a cheap starter cable is required then use Twin and Earth solid core mains cable from a hardware store.

Only the cables with a star are recommended for sonic performance and value by NVA. The remainder are electrically compatible and may prove suitable in your system, but have not been assessed sonically. As a rule, avoid cables of more than 200pF per meter (65 pF per foot) as an outside limit. Also, speaker cables should not be over 10 meters (33 feet) in length. "

SCIDB

thanks very much
Yes Richard did eventually tell me that .I was confused by the picture which seemed to show one terminated lead ie both ends of. My TBI Diamond speakers would be fine too . Only thing is he hasnt replied to my question regarding use of an active sub.As my Diamonds are very small they dont drop very low so I tend to use a Bk Electronic sub.Would you know if an AP30 could handle such a sub?