Would this be worthwhile? (speaker support)

My take on it is that on suspended wooden floors, decoupling the speaker from the floor is the best plan, whilst on a solid concrete floor where you don't have to worry about this you can go the rigid route.

Philip King said:
i.e. a rigidly locked stand to the floor, therefore isolating the speaker for foot steps etc
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Rigidly coupling something to the floor will make it more susceptible to footsteps, not isolate from this.

rsand said:
Firstly forget the spikes (they do rock, just push one)
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Provided the floor isn't soft they shouldn't.
 
penance said:
screwing to floor is out unfortunately, as its not my house:(
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If its carpeted who would know? Spikes will make more of a mess than 2 or 3 screws. Spiking instead of screwing should still work they just won't be as planted, soundwise though I would be surpised if you could hear a difference between spiked and screwed.

Having 4 lots of slate, dont take my word as gospel, experiment with your original idea you might prefer it. Steel spikes do resonate though, sorbathane doesn't which is why I think my suggestion above works, maybe if you could get aluminium (very low resonating metal) spikes it would be different? Although I did try RCD (non resonating) and still prefered the sorbathane.
 
What's the point of coupling the slate tightly to the floor, if you're only going to decouple the speaker above? Put sorbothane below the slate. Similar to vehicle suspension, "minimise the unsprung weight" - that means put the spring/damper below the slate, not above. You then have a lossy barrier to vibrations. Above the barrier you have a high mass sitting on a lossy spring, which means that anything that actually makes it up through the lossy spring can't move the object because it is so massive.
 
I just used large thick slabs of slate under speakers when I had B&W 804 the speakers on spikes just stood on slabs very good but slab was very thick
 

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