Julian's Speaker Build Diary....
- Thread starter julian2002
- Start date
julian2002
Muper Soderator
gideon,
yeah i've been scanning the instruction and making lists of what else i need. there's a bunch of little things i need to source (like drill bits and black chipboard screws, etc.) along with the wood batton for the blocks - although again i may be able to find something suitable from my dad. i'll be spray painting the speakers to finish.
one question - the gasket used for sealing the drivers and the crossover panel. ivan says to use foam daught excluder - is this the thin strip you get on a roll or some other sort?
joel,
i'll be asking my dad for advice along the way however he's not in top physical shape so won't be able to help practically.
cheers
julian
yeah i've been scanning the instruction and making lists of what else i need. there's a bunch of little things i need to source (like drill bits and black chipboard screws, etc.) along with the wood batton for the blocks - although again i may be able to find something suitable from my dad. i'll be spray painting the speakers to finish.
one question - the gasket used for sealing the drivers and the crossover panel. ivan says to use foam daught excluder - is this the thin strip you get on a roll or some other sort?
joel,
i'll be asking my dad for advice along the way however he's not in top physical shape so won't be able to help practically.
cheers
julian
penance
Arrogant Cock
Julian
Yep, draught excluder is the thin strip stuff for putting around doors/windows.
Yep, draught excluder is the thin strip stuff for putting around doors/windows.
Draught excluder.
Julian
Yes use ordinay draught excluder worked a treat. Cheaper and thicker than gasket materail from Wilmslow.
Onne thing you might want to do is get some gold plated spade terminals to plus the speaker in. It makes it very quick and if you have cocked anything up then it makes removal straight forward.
Cheers
Gideon
Julian
Yes use ordinay draught excluder worked a treat. Cheaper and thicker than gasket materail from Wilmslow.
Onne thing you might want to do is get some gold plated spade terminals to plus the speaker in. It makes it very quick and if you have cocked anything up then it makes removal straight forward.
Cheers
Gideon
julian2002
Muper Soderator
thanks guys,
i'll probably start with the stands - a simple sand filled box. to hone my wood glueing skills on. i'm feeling a bit ropey today though - seem to have a hangover, without having drunk anything so i'm just going to take it easy today.
cheers
julian
i'll probably start with the stands - a simple sand filled box. to hone my wood glueing skills on. i'm feeling a bit ropey today though - seem to have a hangover, without having drunk anything so i'm just going to take it easy today.
cheers
julian
julian2002
Muper Soderator
rob,
i think the gasket needs to be squishy so that when you tighten the bolts for the drive units the seal is made - but can be broken and remade when you fiddle with the wadding behind the drivers etc. iirc automotive gaskets are a one time deal and if you break them they need to be replaced.
ok new question.
i'm going to be honing my skills by building the stands first - these are very simple mdf boxes about 10 cm high. they are to be filled with dry sand however i've heard of different concoctions of different materials being beneficial in helping to damp / absorb vibration. does anyone have any recipies for this kind of thing? i was going to use dried sand as a base but mix it with packing foam, polystyrene peanuts and possibly some gravel and coal to get something with lots of different densities to help dampen vibration. good idea? idea worthy of a pneumatic bimbette? i throw myself on the mercy of the court.
cheers
julian
i think the gasket needs to be squishy so that when you tighten the bolts for the drive units the seal is made - but can be broken and remade when you fiddle with the wadding behind the drivers etc. iirc automotive gaskets are a one time deal and if you break them they need to be replaced.
ok new question.
i'm going to be honing my skills by building the stands first - these are very simple mdf boxes about 10 cm high. they are to be filled with dry sand however i've heard of different concoctions of different materials being beneficial in helping to damp / absorb vibration. does anyone have any recipies for this kind of thing? i was going to use dried sand as a base but mix it with packing foam, polystyrene peanuts and possibly some gravel and coal to get something with lots of different densities to help dampen vibration. good idea? idea worthy of a pneumatic bimbette? i throw myself on the mercy of the court.
cheers
julian
bottleneck
talks a load of rubbish
All I know is that you have to get the right sand, some has too high water content.
Thats the extent of my knowledge on sand filling!
Thats the extent of my knowledge on sand filling!
penance
Arrogant Cock
Julian
If your worried the sand may be wet, put in a baking tray and stick it in the oven.
If you go to a diving shop they should stock lead shot (used for wieght), get a few KG's and mix it in. Just dont tell them what its for, i made that mistake:shame:
If your worried the sand may be wet, put in a baking tray and stick it in the oven.
If you go to a diving shop they should stock lead shot (used for wieght), get a few KG's and mix it in. Just dont tell them what its for, i made that mistake:shame:
julian2002 said:
What about a pile of old paper? Its heavy, frictionally lossy and fills the cavity to stop the box humming a tune. You can bugger about with sand on the Mk II............
MartinC
Trainee tea boy
Graham C said:
Possibly sand would damp particularly the sides of the stand better than a pile of paper? Sand isn't that tricky to deal with after all, once you've dried it out (or paid more for it to be dry to start with).
analoguekid
Planet Rush
atacanma atabytes? mixed with sand
kermit
still dreaming.......
Julian said
"i'll probably start with the stands - a simple sand filled box."
Is this just a two or three inch tall box ?
If so perhaps try putting a couple of bike inner tubes in it and have yourself a built in air platform .
Graham said
"What about a pile of old paper? "
You could store the leftovers of whichever wallpaper pattern you choose to cover the speakers. That way if you,ve got a little tear you can pach easily.
No wasting time looking for yer wallpaper.
One of these is a serious answer , you decide which
"i'll probably start with the stands - a simple sand filled box."
Is this just a two or three inch tall box ?
If so perhaps try putting a couple of bike inner tubes in it and have yourself a built in air platform .
Graham said
"What about a pile of old paper? "
You could store the leftovers of whichever wallpaper pattern you choose to cover the speakers. That way if you,ve got a little tear you can pach easily.
No wasting time looking for yer wallpaper.
One of these is a serious answer , you decide which
analoguekid
Planet Rush
Just thought Ju don't think you're mean't to fill the box believe, 1/2-2/3 full is reccomended.
julian2002
Muper Soderator
i've actually seen some 'stone fleck' spray paint. i'm toying with this idea as it would disguise any deficiencies in my painting technique - certainly it would do so betterr than a gloss automotive finish.
cheers
julian
cheers
julian
analoguekid
Planet Rush
Julian beware that fleck paint,
1 it doesn't go very far, ie costa fortune, i would reckon on maybe 3-4 cans per speaker (fb1 sized) and another 1 or 2 cans varnish(essential for logevity)
2 Also finish very rough so difficult to keep clean (duster sticks to it, I'm led to believe)
1 it doesn't go very far, ie costa fortune, i would reckon on maybe 3-4 cans per speaker (fb1 sized) and another 1 or 2 cans varnish(essential for logevity)
2 Also finish very rough so difficult to keep clean (duster sticks to it, I'm led to believe)
in another thread smudge mentioned Japlac , could be worth looking into.
perhaps the best way to be sure is to try several different methods on some scrap mdf and then choose the best finnish.
a days work and a few quid but at least there wont be that , wonder what they would have looked like , question when finnished.
perhaps the best way to be sure is to try several different methods on some scrap mdf and then choose the best finnish.
a days work and a few quid but at least there wont be that , wonder what they would have looked like , question when finnished.
julian2002
Muper Soderator
Look at my box....
yes i've started... i have made the bottom bit of one of the stands - i'll make the other one up and then try to find some dried sand and then mix it with some bits and bobs and put the tops on.
here are some piccys of my handiwork...
and
and just because i'm soooooo proud...
the little bits of wood on the inside are hot glued in to hold the wood glued main bits in place whilst the wood glue dries - hence no need for clamping...
cheers
julian
yes i've started... i have made the bottom bit of one of the stands - i'll make the other one up and then try to find some dried sand and then mix it with some bits and bobs and put the tops on.
here are some piccys of my handiwork...
and
and just because i'm soooooo proud...
the little bits of wood on the inside are hot glued in to hold the wood glued main bits in place whilst the wood glue dries - hence no need for clamping...
cheers
julian
sideshowbob
Trisha
Well, even if the speakers don't come off you've now got two cat litter trays.
-- Ian
-- Ian
penance
Arrogant Cock
Julian
I realy wouldnt trust the hot glue method, with the wooden bits in to hold it there is no external pressure against the joint.
Still, looking good though
I realy wouldnt trust the hot glue method, with the wooden bits in to hold it there is no external pressure against the joint.
Still, looking good though
