Julian's Speaker Build Diary....

the hot glue stuff is surprisingly strong - i really had to force the 2 long sides in and the end pieces didn't move at all. i'll see how it is in the morning i've realised that i didn't put glue on the ends of the longer sections although i think i'll get away with it on this one. i'll do the other one correctly - i'm hoping i can make all these early mistakes on the stands and get the speakers right. it's daunting but fun. who knows i may even take a crack at the crossover myself - then again maybe not!
cheers


julian.
 
Julian,
I like your style! I've been looking at the IPLs for a while and you've jumped straight in there with the 'daddy'! (which S5 did you go for, the dome or the Audax?)
Your photographs are good and this diary should provide more than useful to any who are shyer than you and cannot admit the mistakes as they happen.

Regarding clamps, I have seen mention of using 'carpet tape' to achieve the desired 'external pressure' in conjunction with internal braces, any residue would be removed in the sanding preparation before the finish.

Regarding the bases: a little late I know but I would extend the bases to give a lower profile with a wider footprint (see * below!).
I believe that sand is recommended as a filling because it's small granules better facilitate the conversion of kinetic energy into heat.
Penance's suggestion of combining small lead shot with sand would seem ideal, combining lead's mass (inertia is movements greatest foe!) with the damping effect of the dry sand.

* The S5TL is the only IPL I will consider, but if I order one I would ask for just the bass unit to be cut-out and place my mid and (ribbon!) tweeter in a separate box isolated above the TL.
 
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lord,
i went for the audax version - if you're going to be a bear be a grizzly's my mottoe - i wonder what that is in latin.
i'll keep the carpet tape suggestion in mind although if i find i do need clamps then i'm sure i can find some somewhere it's just that with my supreme lack of experience i'm slavishly following the instructions. the only drawback with the hot glue is that it sets so quickly - the box says 2 minutes but after 20 seconds it's almost too difficult to move it!
i'm going to look for some sand and lead shot over the weekend i'm also going to add a bit of styrofoam just to mix it up a bit. - i think i'll just screw the tops on too so that i can gain access if i want.
cheers


julian
 
Nice one Julian! :D

Might be an idea to maybe do a quick coat of waterproofing on the inside just incase any moisture finde it's way into the sand.

As others have said, I'll follow this with interest. Might be tempted to give something similar a try MOself :D
 
Test build with blu tak...

ok i built the other stand box - possibly used a bit too much glue which oozed out but i wiped it up with a damp sponge as much as i could and they are going to be painted anyway so shouldn't matter - i'm just being fussy there's only a slight discolouration visible now. changed the method a little in that i wood glued all the bits in place first allowing me to get things just right before hot gluing the woodblocks in place. this seemed to be a lot easier to manage without the struggle i had yesterday to get the side pieces in.

i also tried a test build of the main cabinets. i've used blutak to keep the panels in place. one thing i can forsee as being troublesome is getting everything perfectly vertical (plumb?) any tips other than 'use one of those right angle whotsits' much aprieciated.
so some pics then...

here you can see the test build with the transmission line inside, the 2 stands stacked on top of each other with a dumbell on top and the bottom of my weight bench.
Test%20build%201.JPG


here's a pic from the 'front' of the speaker.
Test%20build%202.JPG


i'll probably put the carcass together tomorrow afternoon so things'll probably look like they are going backwards for a while as i'll have to leave the transmission line dividers and the deflectors until the carcass glue is dry.

keep the tips and encouragement comming....
cheers


julian.
 
Ju to keep things square can you not cut some scrap MDF to use as spacers, you are gonna have to use a Syare at some point, I suggest gluing the top, bottom and rear, as your pic then wait for it all to dry, then use 2 spacers to between rear panel and rearmost transmission line, and wait till dry, then repaet for frontmoast tl line then lastly add front baffle, personally I would curb my impatience and take 2-3 days to get them built, looking good sofar though.
 
just to echo,

Id be using several set squares, and marking the perfect placing of each piece with pencil on the wood. Its inside so you wont see all your marks anyway.

Looking good Ju, things are coming on a bit!

I have some clamps BTW, you can borrow during any week, but I need them back for DIY on each weekend if you do.

Chris
 
there are some aditional braces that go between the main panels and the transmision line spacers but i've got to cut those myself :yikes:
i'm pretty sure i can get some set squares from my dad so i should be ok there.
cheers

julian
 
Ju, the front panel seems upside down :D. You can't have bass driver on the top ! :yikes:

But seriously, what's the hole in the back panel for? I didn't think TL speakers have any reflex ports except that "mouth" at the front.

Edit: doh. obviously for speaker terminals :o
 
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themadhippy said:
why not?
Click to expand...

Because all the bass goes over the listeners ears, rather than hitting the chest, or if the bass is at correct height then treble hit the knees rather than ears :D

Of course you realise I was taking the Michael.
 
Dive right in....

Ok, i've now built one of the carcasses (except for the top panel) was a bit frenetic but i got there in the end.

if you look closely you can see some small dark spots inside - that's sweat - all i need now are blood and tears and the gods shall be appeased.
Carcass%201.JPG


From a different angle. the front baffle is lined up as straight as i could get it.
Carcass%202.JPG


And yet another angle - you can see the sweat more clearly in this one...
Carcass%203.JPG


and finally with the last side on (but not glued) and some weights on top
Carcass%204.JPG


I'll probably let it dry until sunday now. do you think i should go round the inside edges with some silicon sealant too - just to make sure?
cheers

julian
 

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