No global negative feedback

melorib said:
You ignore or disdain the opinions of several very qualified persons, some members of this forum, not talking about me, when you ran out of arguments you make false statements trying to make a point, for instance:

.
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Don't be so stupid. I questioned. I put forward an alternative theory. I asked for proof. None was forthcoming. It still hasn't been. You might not require proof that your audio voodoo works. I do. If I make a false statement I expect someone to pick me up on it. I haven't and no one has.

It hasn't even crossed your mind that the impedence curve of your drive unit might be causing huge frequency anomolies now you've removed NFB. It hasn't crossed your mind that removing NFB increases PSU noise in nearly all instances. You don't want to hear the truth. That's your problem. If it's not the truth prove it - fairly simple proposition.

For trying to offer you some advice, from which you might actually learn something, all I get is childish and petulant posts because your childlike psyche feels your ego is being threatened. It's happened before here. Lowrider arguing from a position of utter ignorance. We all remember what happened then. We were only discussing it last Weekend.

People who buy hifi and think they can improve it despite being utterly ignorant get what they deserve really. An insult to the designer just as a fool would slap salt on food prepared by a world class chef. For the last time the advice is to contact the speaker manufacturer and get a copy of the impedence curve. From that decide whether it is suitable for the intended application. If it isn't consider adding a Zoebel. If it is, buy an amplifier designed by a competent engineer to perform in the manner you want. Choose to ignore it if you like - it's your loss.
 
Mic,

For the last time, I listen with my ears, not with my eyes, is it so hard to understand... :confused:

We all remember what happened then. We were only discussing it last Weekend.
Click to expand...

So now you discuss about me on weekends, I didnt know I was that important to you...

People who buy hifi and think they can improve it despite being utterly ignorant get what they deserve really.
Click to expand...

I am honoured to be included in the same group as 3Dsonics, and Wadiameister, and many other I admire in this forum, unfortunately I need help for all my small mods...

Tuga,

I saw the picture of your room in Schallwand page even posted on my forum:

http://groups.msn.com/hififorfun/_whatsnew.msnw

What speakers are you buying ?
 
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melorib said:
Mic,

For the last time, I listen with my ears, not with my eyes, is it so hard to understand... :confused:
Click to expand...

From someone who doesn't do blind tests and has an internet site with lots of gloosy photos of his own hifi it's more laughable than difficult to comprehend:D
 
Olá António,

I plan to buy an Audio Note AN-E kit to pair with my forty seven shig system.
When my son is old enough - read less destructive - I might consider DIY widerange boxes or maybe even open baffles... ANs will do for now.

Best,
Ricardo

melorib said:
Tuga,

I saw the picture of your room in Schallwand page even posted on my forum:

http://groups.msn.com/hififorfun/_whatsnew.msnw

What speakers are you buying ?
Click to expand...
 
I hardwired triode mode, bypassing the relays, still waiting for the Nichicon replacement CAPs...

My friends now suggest I replace the 12AT7 with 12AU7, lower gain, more linear, 1/4 distortion, all I have to do is put one 47Kohm resistor in paralell with another 30Kohm in the PS... :rolleyes:

In AA I have this totally opposite opinions:

few people realize how inherently bad the 12au7 is.
all the alternate versions are better. the mobile version is better.

The 12AT7 for its failings: it is actually not that linear.
However it always at least sounds ok, and sometimes even excellent.
It really does like choke or CCS loading.

Have Fun: remember always replace all 12AU7's with real tubes, or failing this, an old 12AT7 will be definite improvement.

Oh yes, flames, wonderful warm tubular flames.
Click to expand...

I wasn't going to post on this thread but decided to anyway. The 12AU7
family is the best (IMO) of the big four (6DJ8, 12AT7 and 12AX7). There
are a plethora of good to great tubes in this family. There are so many that this is the family that allows the greatest ability to fine tune the system to your taste. The thing to know though is that the E80cc, a substitute in almost all circuits, is the very best. And the one to get is the Tungsram. The only truly great tube in the 6DJ8 family is the Amperex pinched waist. There are some good 12AX7 but no great ones. They all smear detail to different degrees (an unforgiveable sin). The 12AT7 family is not bad but there are not many options here. The two most highly regarded are the GEC 2900A (triple mica only) and the Valvo blue label pinched waist. If you are interested in what the AA community thinks of the 12AU7 family read some threads here. The poster on this thread that has pronounced it a bad tube family is inexperienced to put it politely.
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Contrasting opinions on AA? There's a shock.

Reminds me I must dump the four AT7's that are ruining the performance of my amps. Must tell Neil too.

I say go for it - hell you've started you might as well finish.

PS. Your contributions on AA are enlightening. Where do you cut and paste them from?
 
Hi,

melorib said:
My friends now suggest I replace the 12AT7 with 12AU7, lower gain, more linear, 1/4 distortion, all I have to do is put one 47Kohm resistor in paralell with another 30Kohm in the PS... :rolleyes:

In AA I have this totally opposite opinions:
Click to expand...

You need to realise that to talk about a given valve without context makes no sense at all.

The 12AU7 and 12AT7 are both considered "poor sounding" by many, especially by people who seem to claim 6SN7 "Ueber Alles", which in turn leaves me bemused, as the 12AU7 invariably sounds cleaner and more neutral than the supposedly electrically identical 6SN7, of course if you want traditional, cuddely, "low rez" tube sound that may be what you need.

In your Amplifier, in the context, in the specific circuit, with the specific other valves used (6SN7 & EL34 et al) the 12AU7 is in my view a better choice than the 12AT7. But that's just me.

Ciao T
 
Hi,

Stereo Mic said:
Anyone seeing a Cayin on Latvian E Bay would be advised to stay well clear.
Click to expand...

That is a good advise, in general and I would think applies not only to E-bay latvia.

But surely you noticed that the Amplifier Antonio has is not from Cayin. If not, could the fact that you two are seemingly talk about completely different amplifiers account for some of the misunderstandings?

Ciao T
 
3DSonics said:
Hi,



You need to realise that to talk about a given valve without context makes no sense at all.

The 12AU7 and 12AT7 are both considered "poor sounding" by many, especially by people who seem to claim 6SN7 "Ueber Alles", which in turn leaves me bemused, as the 12AU7 invariably sounds cleaner and more neutral than the supposedly electrically identical 6SN7, of course if you want traditional, cuddely, "low rez" tube sound that may be what you need.

In your Amplifier, in the context, in the specific circuit, with the specific other valves used (6SN7 & EL34 et al) the 12AU7 is in my view a better choice than the 12AT7. But that's just me.

Ciao T
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I am going to try it, apparentely all I have to do is change one resistor, R28, on the PS, my friends wll calculate the right value...
 
Hi,

melorib said:
Thanks,

I am going to try it, apparentely all I have to do is change one resistor, R28, on the PS, my friends wll calculate the right value...
Click to expand...

Best is to adjust this to have the same voltage to ground on what is labelledTP3 (Test Point 3). I'd be tempted to just stick 33k across it and see if I can use VR4 to adjust the rest of the difference.

BTW, try the 12AU7 without the cathode capacitor restored, you may find it reduces noise enough to not need to put the capacitor back at all.

Ciao T
 
3DSonics said:
Best is to adjust this to have the same voltage to ground on what is labelledTP3 (Test Point 3). I'd be tempted to just stick 33k across it and see if I can use VR4 to adjust the rest of the difference.

BTW, try the 12AU7 without the cathode capacitor restored, you may find it reduces noise enough to not need to put the capacitor back at all.
Click to expand...

Do you mean adjust VR4 disconnected, try, adjust again, and so on ?

33K in parallel or instead of the standard 30K R28 ?

The noise is not listenable from the sofa, my greatest problem is the worst quality of bass without the CAP...
 
Hi,

melorib said:
Do you mean adjust VR4 disconnected, try, adjust again, and so on ?

33K in parallel or instead of the standard 30K R28 ?
Click to expand...

Measure the voltage on TP3.

Switch off.

Connect 33K in parallel with R28 and fit 12AU7.

Switch on.

Measure voltage on TP3 and try adjsuting it with VR4 to the same as measured before. If the adjustment range is insufficient you need to change the 33K fitted in parallel to R28. If the voltage remains to low fit a lower value, if it is too high fit a higher value.

melorib said:
The noise is not listenable from the sofa, my greatest problem is the worst quality of bass without the CAP...
Click to expand...

Interresting. The capacitor would have added distortion and phaseshift at low frequencies, maybe you need to re-tune the subwoofer?

Ciao T
 

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